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Routes in Detox Wall
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Betty Ford's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Daily Prayer S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fallen Spirits S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Intervention S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jonesin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Loading Dose S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Methadone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straight Jacket S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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With Draws S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Todd Offerbacher, Brad Jackson July 2001 |
| Page Views: | 1,124 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on May 7, 2004 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: The Caldor Fire is actively burning-DO NOT JEOPARDIZE ACCESS BY ATTEMPTING TO ACCESS CLOSED AREAS.
Details
The Caldor Fire is actively burning and there are heavy firefighting and remediation/assessment activities taking place. DO NOT JEOPARDIZE ACCESS BY ATTEMPTING TO ACCESS CLOSED AREAS.
Caldor Fire closures:
(1) El Dorado National Forest closed to all users until at least September 30, 2021.
(2) Desolation Wilderness closed through October 20, 2021. Map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
(3) Lake Tahoe Basin National Forest land in South Lake Tahoe is also closed through December 31, 2021. Map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Caldor Fire closures:
(1) El Dorado National Forest closed to all users until at least September 30, 2021.
(2) Desolation Wilderness closed through October 20, 2021. Map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
(3) Lake Tahoe Basin National Forest land in South Lake Tahoe is also closed through December 31, 2021. Map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Description
This is the second route from the right on the Detox wall, and shares the top anchor and top three bolts with Betty Ford's Route (5.9).
Climb up fun, but hard face climbing for the first two bolts, and then into a much needed rest below a small roof. Pull the roof, and keep heading up the face through run out, but simple climbing until the climb meets up with Betty Ford's route, with which it shares the last 3 bolts.
The crux, depending on who you ask, is either pulling the roof, or clipping the second draw.
Climb up fun, but hard face climbing for the first two bolts, and then into a much needed rest below a small roof. Pull the roof, and keep heading up the face through run out, but simple climbing until the climb meets up with Betty Ford's route, with which it shares the last 3 bolts.
The crux, depending on who you ask, is either pulling the roof, or clipping the second draw.
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