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Routes in Detox Wall

Betty Ford's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Prayer S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallen Spirits S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Intervention S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jonesin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loading Dose S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Methadone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Jacket S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
With Draws S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: Todd Offerbacher, Brad Jackson July 2001
Page Views: 668 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 7, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the second route from the right on the Detox wall, and shares the top anchor and top three bolts with Betty Ford's Route (5.9).

Climb up fun, but hard face climbing for the first two bolts, and then into a much needed rest below a small roof. Pull the roof, and keep heading up the face through run out, but simple climbing until the climb meets up with Betty Ford's route, with which it shares the last 3 bolts.

The crux, depending on who you ask, is either pulling the roof, or clipping the second draw.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared with Betty Ford's Route (5.9, 9 bolts).

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