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Routes in Detox Wall

Betty Ford's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Prayer S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallen Spirits S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Intervention S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jonesin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loading Dose S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Methadone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Jacket S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
With Draws S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Liz Wilson-Sell, Jay Sell, 1996
Page Views: 99 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on May 3, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located just right of With Draws in the dead middle of Detox Wall, Loading Dose ascends a steep face to a horizontal crack, then proceed up and right past an overhanging block. From there, the climb become less steep as you climb past the final bolt on a right-facing wall.Both face and crack moves prove necessary at the crux.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

In need of some beta for the diagonal sorta off width crack after the 4th bolt. I had gotten in my right forearm towards the bottom of the crack and was able to lock off, got my left fist in a hold, enough to remove my right hold. I tried feeling around for a right hand outside the crack but couldnt find a good hold.
need help!!
-m Sep 24, 2013