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Routes in Detox Wall

Betty Ford's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Prayer S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallen Spirits S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Intervention S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jonesin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loading Dose S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Methadone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Jacket S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
With Draws S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Brock Berry and Steve Briggs 1997
Page Views: 309 total, 2/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on May 8, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The right-most climb on the platform of the main Detox Wall, Straight Jacket begins in a diagnal slopey finger crack past the first two bolts. It moves right to a slightly wider crack, parallel to the first, then finally through a third crack over the crux bulge to the anchors.

Some would think the crux move must be done dynamically, but it doesn't.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

You can toprope straight jacket by rappelling from the top anchor of Intervention (.10d) or the anchor shared by Daily Prayer (.10c) and Betty Ford's Route (.9).

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