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Elevation: 6,359 ft 1,938 m
GPS: 43.84169, -103.5458
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 142,103 total · 533/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 25, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description Suggest change

The Needles Eye area is located along the Needles Highway next to its namesake spire and the long one lane tunnel. Besides the Needles Eye itself, many other classic spires like the Bell Tower, Hitching Post, and Bloody Spire as well as great boulders like the Thimble are in the area. Many of these routes are dangerous, but there are some classic moderates and even the odd sport route.

Getting There Suggest change

From Sylvan Lake, head up the Needles Highway. The Needles Eye is the obvious spire before the tunnel, which is usually easily identifiable by hordes of tourists milling around. Spires are scattered in the woods both up and downhill from the parking lot, and as with everywhere else in the Needles orientation is difficult on your first few visits.

72 Total Climbs

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Location: Needles Eye Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Needles Eye Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
 82
Moonlight Rib
Trad
Fan
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Doody Direct
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
 39
Needle's Eye
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Crimps and Cramps
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 64
Threading the Needle
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Renn Fenton Direct Route
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Original Route
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 11
Kamps Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Every Which Way But Loose
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Mark and Tim's Excellent Adventure
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Just an Obstacle Course
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 10
Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 9
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V5 6C
 5
The Thimble
Boulder
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 4
99 Problems
Sport
Fan
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Moonlight Rib Fan
 82
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R Trad
Doody Direct Gnomon
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Needle's Eye Needle's Eye
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad 2 pitches
Crimps and Cramps Back Side
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Threading the Needle Needle's Eye
 64
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Renn Fenton Direct Route Needle's Eye
 26
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Original Route Sore Thumb
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Kamps Crack Bell Tower
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Every Which Way But Loose Bell Tower
 13
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Mark and Tim's Excellent Ad… Loeber's Leap > Loebers Leap
 13
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Just an Obstacle Course Clam Shell
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple… Bell Tower
 10
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades Gnomon
 9
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
The Thimble Thimble
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V5 6C Boulder
99 Problems Fan
 4
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Needles Eye Area »

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