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Routes in Bell Tower

Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Conn Route on Bell Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Every Which Way But Kamps S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Every Which Way But Loose T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Whom the Bell Tolls S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Kamps Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bob Kamps & Rich Goldstone, 1967
Page Views: 185 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Tape up or suffer- this crack is loaded with quartz and flares. Wear a shirt to protect your shoulders.
Start in a shallow right-facing crystalline corner. CLimb this up and then bump left to the main crack (crux, pumpy) on so-so gear. Lots of it, but some in very crystalline (and thus possibly breakable) rock. Set a 1" cam and then pull up into the flaring jam crack, wishing all the while you had taped you hands and maybe even your forearms. Waiting until cooler temps and wearing sleeves might take the bite out of it as well. Continue with good rock, good gear, and a good calf-pump for 100' to a ledge with some open 'shuts' set for a rap (60m rope) or continue up and left on ramp then back right on good face-holds (5.3, S) or straight up (5.6, S) to a second set of anchors a foot below the true summit. The summit is very cool with great views. Rap from the top anchors with a 70M rope, or to the lower anchors and then to the ground with a 60M rope.
Scramble to the summit for awesome views.

The ramp between the two rap anchors has both raspberry and strawberry plants on it. Chow down!

Location

This route is on the North end of the North-East face and as such gets morning light until maybe 11am in early summer, but it is seasonally dependent. hike around from the main lot of the Needle's eye, North of that and into the forested boulders at the base of the Bell Tower- walk out until you are on top of a massive flat chockstone the size of a car. Rack up and belay from there.

Protection

A set of stoppers with a few extra large and medium plus cams from .5" to 3.5." Take and extra #3 and maybe a 3.5 if you like to sew them up.

Photos

rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
 
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
 
Taping for cracks hadn't yet happened in 1967, but we didn't get badly cut up, maybe a few scratches. It's a Needles crack; you have to be careful with your skin. That said, I'd certainly tape or use some kind of hand-jammy thingy now.

The crux is transitioning from the shallow corner/layback to the crack above. I went up first, protected by a poor piton that was also dangerously low. The rock at the transition point was a little rotten, and both Bob and I pulled off some holds. I wasn't happy with the situation and climbed back down. Bob went up and managed, with his usual finesse, to get a better higher piton in the very bottom of the upper crack and finished the lead. Feb 11, 2012