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Routes in Bell Tower

Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple Heart S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Conn Route on Bell Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Every Which Way But Kamps S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Every Which Way But Loose T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Whom the Bell Tolls S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Kamps Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Pete Delannoy, Paul Muehl, Paul Piana, and Mark Smedley, June 30, 1979.
Page Views: 153 total, 2/month
Shared By: AhK on Feb 15, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This is a really fun route with great moves that will keep you on your toes.

Start by scrambling to a large sloping ledge near a right-facing corner. There is a very thin crack in the dihedral that will hardly accept your smallest pro. Climb the short dihedral placing marginal protection to a good undercling that will take a hand-sized cam. From the undercling, traverse left following a mix of new and old fixed gear.

The traverse on steep rock is the crux, but is well protected. After the traverse, climb straight up past two more bolts and continue to the anchors.

Location

Located on the N side of the Bell Tower. Start near the middle of the face in a shallow right-facing corner and make your way up and left to the notch near the Needle's Eye.

One 60 m rope will just barely get you down off the N side. Rapping off the S side with a single 60 will also put you on a ledge below another highly recommended route, For Whom the Bell Tolls.

Protection

Mostly fixed gear
Micro gear for dihedral and a hand sized piece or two for the undercling.
Make sure to sling your protection long to avoid rope drag during and after the traverse.
Two bolt anchor with webbing of various ages

Photos

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AhK
 
AhK  
 
Pete de Lannoy wrote a pretty epic short story about the FA of this route that can be found at the following link for $0.99 on Kindle.

amazon.com/Tales-Edge-Never… Aug 24, 2015