All Locations > S Dakota > Custer SP > Needles Eye Area

Gnomon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Gnomon

L › R R › L A › Z

	Conn Route on Gnomon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Doody Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Horseshoes and Hand Grenades T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

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Elevation:	6,425 ft	1,958 m
GPS:	43.84204, -103.54416 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,638 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Steve Mestdagh on Jul 9, 2002
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

You can see the tip of Gnomon from the West side Needles parking area if you walk a bit West. You'll say to your partner "That can't be it. It's skinny and overhanging." From the East side parking area which is a few hundred yards east of the tunnel, it's very obvious and not so scary looking. From the East viewpoint, the belay chains can be seen glinting in the sun. (You'd think the person installing them would have painted them. Ugly, Ugly!)

The rock is decent quality but crumbly through a few sections. The descent is via a one rope bolted rappel down the NW side. There's a nice little ledge next to the rap anchors. Save some friends (approx #1 to #3) for this ledge since belaying at the rap anchors means hanging. For what it's worth, there is a rusty pin at the ledge also.

The classic must-do route is Doody Direct (5.8).

Getting There

From the West side Needles Eye parking area, continue East through the tunnel. Park immediately after the tunnel on your left at a small pullout next to a rock. Follow an eroded trail uphill. You'll see the spire straight ahead (about 150 ft. from the road) although it's hard to make it out due to the trees. John Page's green book "Recommended Climbs ..." gives a good description of approach also.