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Routes in Loebers Leap

Mark and Tim's Excellent Adventure T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tony and Kyle's Bogus Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tim McCabe and Mark DeVries
Page Views: 1,541 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tim McCabe on Nov 1, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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As you walk down the hill look for the anchor for pitch one. Then locate the first bolt; the original start is 25’ right of the bolt. Do an easy boulder move and then move left on the big ledge until you can get to a crack on the right side of a V-shaped horn. Get gear and move up to the first bolt. The climbing is 5.8 and easier for several bolts. At the fourth bolt I moved right (5.10b) and then up to a shallow groove with a small crack (5.9). Follow this and one more like it to the next bolt. The anchor is a short traverse right.

Pitch one sport climb variation: start directly below the first bolt and climb up to the left side of the V-shaped horn. Place a brown tri-cam, follow bolts to the crux, and climb straight to the next bolt to the left of the two shallow cracks. Rich Barry did this and rated it 5.10c sport protected.

The second pitch is 5.8 and diagonals up and right to reach a ledge, then traverses left to the anchor.

The third and final pitch goes up the summit blocks arête. Scramble around and up to the left side of the summit block and climbs some thick flakes to reach a horn. Sling the horn and move out right. You are now above your belayer. Clip the bolt and do some 5.6, the crux of the pitch. Run out 5.3 leads to a large brain-like bulge with a perfect notch for a shoulder sling. More easy climbing leads to a ledge and you can get some small tri-cams. The true summit is an easy scramble enjoy the great view of Sylvan Lake.

To descend from the ledge you belayed from, look southwest away from the way up and you will see an easy gully down to a grassy area. Then walk west and find a gap in the wall on your right. Go through this to the north and you are on the traverse ledge of pitch 2. Walk carefully to the anchor and do a one-rope rappel to the anchor on pitch one, then 2 ropes to the ground.


Slings and draws, small tri-cams, aliens.


adam tschida
adam tschida  
Did this route over the 4th, and have several comments.

First of all, this really is an excellent route. Tim's description is really pretty good, once you add the mental punctuation. The 3rd pitch rivals Moonlight Rib for one of the most fun in the Needles, IMHO.

The route is on the NW side of Loeber's Leap, and shady most of the day. The rock quality is excellent.

I wouldn't recommend the traverse to the right, but rather head up to the fifth bolt and climb the "sport climb" variation. I did the traverse and had tremendous rope drag. I also had my partner clean the gear, reverse the traverse and climb the sport variation, because if she had fallen at the crux, she would have swung a long ways.

Gear needed is a red alien or tricam, a couple shoulder slings and 7 QDs.

There are no rap slings at the end of the first pitch. The rappel from the end of the second pitch to the ground is 58m.

Adam Jul 12, 2007
Tim McCabe
Tucson, AZ
Tim McCabe   Tucson, AZ

Thanks for the comments glad you liked the route, as the name implies we had fun putting it up.

Not sure about the problems you encountered with the crux traverse, but maybe I should have said long runners instead of slings and draws. I don’t remember there being a problem with rope drag but I am sure I would have used a long runner on that piece.

I am not sure what you are talking about with the long swing for the second it has been too long since I have been on it.

Sounds like you can get down in one rap with 2 60 meter ropes; there is also the option of descending the 4th class route. Mar 10, 2008
josh balt
Hill City South Dakota
josh balt   Hill City South Dakota
I have done this route many times, its so good. The last pitch as stellar as the moonlight rib! This is a perfect example of utilizing the full potential Black Hills Climbing can offer. Apr 23, 2011

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