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Routes in Gnomon

Conn Route on Gnomon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doody Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Kevin Bein '80
Page Views: 1,360 total, 8/month
Shared By: Eric Krantz on May 30, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Get there: From Sylvan, got through the tunnel and park immediately on the left. Walk uphill (on the path) for maybe 200 feet until you come to a large right-facing dihedral with 2 huge ferny cracks in the inside corner (one on each side of the dihedral). Horseshoes and Hand Grenades is the finger crack 5 feet to the left of the corner.

Climb it: Rack up some small cams and nuts and climb to the bolted anchors & chains which you'll find on the ledge above the crack. This climb is consistent 5.11 all the way, with good but small finger jams and a few face holds on either side. The crux for me (on toprope) was about 1/3 the way up.

Protection

Small nuts and cams.

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Mark Rafferty
Rapid City,SD
  5.11c/d PG13
Mark Rafferty   Rapid City,SD  
  5.11c/d PG13
Badass Line. Great for early cold mornings. Gets blasted in the sun with almost no wind. If you have chubby fingers like me be prepared to really push to get those tips in. Sep 25, 2016
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.11c/d PG13
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
  5.11c/d PG13
Prepare for some finger licking good on this Needles classic. Short, stout and technical not too mention a bit physical. An assortment of small brass nuts, small to medium stoppers, plus cams small to thin hand sized make for an adequate rack. Go do it... Just remember close only counts in "Horseshoes & Hand Grenades". Jun 19, 2011
Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
Andy Busse   Rapid City, SD  
Has anybody heard if Larry Shaffer's guidebook is out yet or what the status of it is? Jun 4, 2004