Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Yin and Yang Cliff
Select Route:
Atman T 
Barely Nut-in T 
Bigwank T 
Budda's Corner T 
Shortwank T 
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 
Unknown T 
Yin and Yang T 
Zoroaster T 

Yin and Yang 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,654
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Deanna getting ready to fire the crux!
Armando Lee...

Description 

The left wall has this curvy thin hands crack. Take some thin gear for the last moves. Like its neighbor, a sweet miniature route.


Protection 

to 2"



Photos of Yin and Yang Slideshow Add Photo
Yin and Yang
Yin and Yang
Nice view of the whole pitch. Yin and Yang. 2011.  <br /> <br />Photo: Erica Maharg
Nice view of the whole pitch. Yin and Yang. 2011. ...
Eliot casually stopping to place gear through the crux.
Eliot casually stopping to place gear through the ...
Yin-Yang crack just after the crux moves
Yin-Yang crack just after the crux moves
just past the crux
just past the crux
Comments on Yin and Yang Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2013
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 20, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

i'm not entirely sure why this route is listed as .10d in the guide- its an .11a at least.

sure, its short, but an .11 move is still an .11 move!

By alpinglow
From: city, state
Mar 4, 2007

Waaaaaaaay out of character to call this 10d...especially in Red Rocks. I was told it was 11c and didn't argue after I had climbed it?

So call it 5.11 and have a great time on it, fun route!

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 6, 2007

Allow me to add my voice to the grade-discrepancy racket: I know grades can be flexible, but 5.10d sounds like a sandbag to me. To be sure, the line doesn't stretch for a full rope-length, but I thought it packed a punch despite its short stature.

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

It's soooo good! I can totally see 10D if you have small hands the crescent would go easier. I don't have small hands. LOL One way or another, it's got sick climbing from the ground till the top-out!

By Jon Richard
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Feb 26, 2010

I'd say 10d is fair for small hands... this thing is great! Wish it was longer.

By Zappatista
Oct 31, 2011

For perspective, it's more common to see flashes of Y+Y than Atman, from the dozen times I've been at the cliff. Atman goes from .75 to upper #3s, and usually somewhere in there people will find a size that is pretty tough for them.

For experienced crack climbers, neither is a tough send, Atman is burlier, you get in up to the shoulder, Y+Y feels more exposed and face-y, so strong sport climbers tend to have little trouble, less jams also.

It's a great climb, get at it+worry about the grade later if ya got that kinda time..

By Rob Fielding
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 26, 2012

For a rack I brought single to 3" with extra double 1." The three 1" c4's are perfect to move fast.

By matt carpenter
From: Las Vegas
Feb 28, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pumpy... yes. 5.11... no. Thought this was easier than Rubicon (in Jtree) and that is rated 10c.

By GDavis
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Rubicon, O'Kellys, Papaya Crack, Heart of Darkness, clean and jerk, bearded cabbage... maybe I've been climbing at Josh too much. 10D is soft :)

By BrianWS
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Traversing was bouldery and fun. Short and sweet!

By Phil Esra
Apr 4, 2013

Slightly harder than Rubicon and Heart of Darkness. Pumpier. More fun than Indian Creek, if in a less pretty setting.