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 ADVANCED
Yin and Yang Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atman T 
Barely Nut-in T 
Bigwank T 
Budda's Corner T 
Shortwank T 
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 
Unknown T 
Yin and Yang T 
Zoroaster T 
Unsorted Routes:

Yin and Yang 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,350
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (94)
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Deanna getting ready to fire the crux! Armando Lee...

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Description 

The left wall has this curvy thin hands crack. Take some thin gear for the last moves. Like its neighbor, a sweet miniature route.

Protection 

to 2"


Photos of Yin and Yang Slideshow Add Photo
Yin and Yang
Yin and Yang
Eliot casually stopping to place gear through the ...
Eliot casually stopping to place gear through the ...
Nice view of the whole pitch. Yin and Yang. 2011. ...
Nice view of the whole pitch. Yin and Yang. 2011. ...
Just passed the crux
Just passed the crux
just past the crux
just past the crux
Yin-Yang crack just after the crux moves
Yin-Yang crack just after the crux moves
Having a great time on Yin and Yang
Having a great time on Yin and Yang
Michal on the onsight of this beautiful route. Pho...
Michal on the onsight of this beautiful route. Pho...

Comments on Yin and Yang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 21, 2015
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 20, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

i'm not entirely sure why this route is listed as .10d in the guide- its an .11a at least.

sure, its short, but an .11 move is still an .11 move!
By alpinglow
From: city, state
Mar 4, 2007

Waaaaaaaay out of character to call this 10d...especially in Red Rocks. I was told it was 11c and didn't argue after I had climbed it?

So call it 5.11 and have a great time on it, fun route!
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 6, 2007

Allow me to add my voice to the grade-discrepancy racket: I know grades can be flexible, but 5.10d sounds like a sandbag to me. To be sure, the line doesn't stretch for a full rope-length, but I thought it packed a punch despite its short stature.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

It's soooo good! I can totally see 10D if you have small hands the crescent would go easier. I don't have small hands. LOL One way or another, it's got sick climbing from the ground till the top-out!
By Jon Richard
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Feb 26, 2010

I'd say 10d is fair for small hands... this thing is great! Wish it was longer.
By Cunning Linguist
Oct 31, 2011

For perspective, it's more common to see flashes of Y+Y than Atman, from the dozen times I've been at the cliff. Atman goes from .75 to upper #3s, and usually somewhere in there people will find a size that is pretty tough for them.

For experienced crack climbers, neither is a tough send, Atman is burlier, you get in up to the shoulder, Y+Y feels more exposed and face-y, so strong sport climbers tend to have little trouble, less jams also.

It's a great climb, get at it+worry about the grade later if ya got that kinda time..
By matt carpenter
From: Las Vegas
Feb 28, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pumpy... yes. 5.11... no. Thought this was easier than Rubicon (in Jtree) and that is rated 10c.
By GDavis
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Rubicon, O'Kellys, Papaya Crack, Heart of Darkness, clean and jerk, bearded cabbage... maybe I've been climbing at Josh too much. 10D is soft :)
By BrianWS
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Traversing was bouldery and fun. Short and sweet!
By Phil Esra
Apr 4, 2013

Slightly harder than Rubicon and Heart of Darkness. Pumpier. More fun than Indian Creek, if in a less pretty setting.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 4, 2014

Small (.4 camelot to micro) gear for top anchor works well in the block above and climbers left of the topout. Bolts have been chopped
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Anyone who calls Atman harder than Yin and Yang has betrayed their status as a sport climber.
Super fun route. Felt easier (although "sportier") than Risk Brothers. 10c/d seems fair.
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