Yin and Yang 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | AJ on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Deanna getting ready to fire the crux! Armando Lee...
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Description The left wall has this curvy thin hands crack. Take some thin gear for the last moves. Like its neighbor, a sweet miniature route.
Protection to 2"
Yin-Yang crack just after the crux moves
| just past the crux
| Eliot casually stopping to place gear through the ...
| Yin and Yang
| Nice view of the whole pitch. Yin and Yang. 2011. ...
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By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Aug 20, 2006 rating: 5.11a
| i'm not entirely sure why this route is listed as .10d in the guide- its an .11a at least. sure, its short, but an .11 move is still an .11 move! |
By alpinglow From: city, state Mar 4, 2007
| Waaaaaaaay out of character to call this 10d...especially in Red Rocks. I was told it was 11c and didn't argue after I had climbed it? So call it 5.11 and have a great time on it, fun route! |
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Nov 6, 2007
| Allow me to add my voice to the grade-discrepancy racket: I know grades can be flexible, but 5.10d sounds like a sandbag to me. To be sure, the line doesn't stretch for a full rope-length, but I thought it packed a punch despite its short stature. |
By Jon O'Brien From: Nevada Apr 22, 2009 rating: 5.11b
| It's soooo good! I can totally see 10D if you have small hands the crescent would go easier. I don't have small hands. LOL One way or another, it's got sick climbing from the ground till the top-out! |
By Jon Richard From: St. Louis, Missouri Feb 26, 2010
| I'd say 10d is fair for small hands... this thing is great! Wish it was longer. |
By Killing In The Name Of Oct 31, 2011
| For perspective, it's more common to see flashes of Y+Y than Atman, from the dozen times I've been at the cliff. Atman goes from .75 to upper #3s, and usually somewhere in there people will find a size that is pretty tough for them. For experienced crack climbers, neither is a tough send, Atman is burlier, you get in up to the shoulder, Y+Y feels more exposed and face-y, so strong sport climbers tend to have little trouble, less jams also. It's a great climb, get at it+worry about the grade later if ya got that kinda time.. |
By Rob Fielding From: Las Vegas, NV Feb 26, 2012 rating: 5.10d
| This climb reminds me of the rubicon in JTree. PUMPY. If you have past experience climbing crack, than this is nothing new. Move fast and you'll get through it. Although a pump fest, I don't beleive any single move is at the 11 grade. For a rack I brought single to 3" with extra double 1." The three 1" c4's are perfect to move fast. |
By matt carpenter From: Las Vegas Feb 28, 2012 rating: 5.10c
| Pumpy... yes. 5.11... no. Thought this was easier than Rubicon (in Jtree) and that is rated 10c. |
By GDavis Feb 19, 2013 rating: 5.10d
| Rubicon, O'Kellys, Papaya Crack, Heart of Darkness, clean and jerk, bearded cabbage... maybe I've been climbing at Josh too much. 10D is soft :) |
By BrianWS Mar 17, 2013 rating: 5.10+
| Traversing was bouldery and fun. Short and sweet! |
By Phil Esra Apr 4, 2013
| Slightly harder than Rubicon and Heart of Darkness. Pumpier. More fun than Indian Creek, if in a less pretty setting. |
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