alpinglow city, state

[Hide Comment] Waaaaaaaay out of character to call this 10d...especially in Red Rocks. I was told it was 11c and didn't argue after I had climbed it? So call it 5.11 and have a great time on it, fun route! Mar 4, 2007

andy patterson Carpinteria, CA

[Hide Comment] Allow me to add my voice to the grade-discrepancy racket: I know grades can be flexible, but 5.10d sounds like a sandbag to me. To be sure, the line doesn't stretch for a full rope-length, but I thought it packed a punch despite its short stature. Nov 6, 2007

Jon OBrien Nevada   5.11b

[Hide Comment] It's soooo good! I can totally see 10D if you have small hands the crescent would go easier. I don't have small hands. LOL One way or another, it's got sick climbing from the ground till the top-out! Apr 22, 2009

Jon Richard St. Louis, Missouri

[Hide Comment] I'd say 10d is fair for small hands... this thing is great! Wish it was longer. Feb 26, 2010

Cunning Linguist

[Hide Comment] For perspective, it's more common to see flashes of Y+Y than Atman, from the dozen times I've been at the cliff. Atman goes from .75 to upper #3s, and usually somewhere in there people will find a size that is pretty tough for them. For experienced crack climbers, neither is a tough send, Atman is burlier, you get in up to the shoulder, Y+Y feels more exposed and face-y, so strong sport climbers tend to have little trouble, less jams also. It's a great climb, get at it+worry about the grade later if ya got that kinda time.. Oct 31, 2011

Greg Davis   5.10d

[Hide Comment] Rubicon, O'Kellys, Papaya Crack, Heart of Darkness, clean and jerk, bearded cabbage... maybe I've been climbing at Josh too much. 10D is soft :) Feb 19, 2013

BrianWS   5.10+

[Hide Comment] Traversing was bouldery and fun. Short and sweet! Mar 17, 2013

Phil Esra

[Hide Comment] Slightly harder than Rubicon and Heart of Darkness. Pumpier. More fun than Indian Creek, if in a less pretty setting. Apr 4, 2013

Chris M Hailey, ID

[Hide Comment] Small (.4 camelot to micro) gear for top anchor works well in the block above and climbers left of the topout. Bolts have been chopped Nov 4, 2014

Austin Sobotka Tucson, AZ   5.10c/d

[Hide Comment] Anyone who calls Atman harder than Yin and Yang has betrayed their status as a sport climber. Super fun route. Felt easier (although "sportier") than Risk Brothers. 10c/d seems fair. Mar 21, 2015

Aaron Formella

[Hide Comment] Fantastic route. Rather pumpy for a short climb. I used 3 red Camalots and felt comfortable. I have big hands and the crux for me was hanging on an overhanging ring-lock at the upcurve where there are poor feet. Save a 0.4 BD or similar for a pod to protect the final moves in the thin crack. May 19, 2017

Jan Tarculas San Diego, Ca   5.11a

[Hide Comment] BETA ALERT Gear used: 0.4, 0.75, two #1s ( I walked both), 0.5 and 1 nut at top ( 0.4 or smaller cam would work also) Nov 19, 2017

Nitish Nag United States

[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=KdVTZoG… Nov 27, 2017

Luke Dixon Leavenworth, WA

[Hide Comment] You can set a TR anchor from the top if practicing or this is getting spicy for your skill level, the high swing potential at the bottom is easy .8 climbing. Nov 14, 2020

Ryan Wood Bend, OR   5.11

[Hide Comment] Editing: first time there on a weekend with crowds and a scary/recurring sight was a lot of people climbing on TR way above their ability levels and YARDING on the death block on the right side of the climb about 2/3rds of the way up. The “X” apparently does not deter the majority of gumbies from pulling on it with reckless, feet-skating abandon. Any community discussion about trundling? There were probably 15 or so people sitting below the cliff yesterday and if that comes off on a weekend with a similar crowd it likely won’t end well... Apr 8, 2021

Lucy Kim Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Found a rattlesnake in the route today. Definitely would warn people to be careful. I was on my second lap when I realized there was a rattlesnake. Otherwise, super fun route! May 30, 2022

Jason Pirolo San Francisco

[Hide Comment] looks more intimidating from the base than it climbs. The upper left leaning seam is surprisingly positive. Very, very fun Nov 20, 2022

Harris Kashtan   5.11a

[Hide Comment] Very fun route and also easily able to setup a gear anchor in order to top rope it. If you are able to finish this route, the early traverse at 5.8 won't be a problem with the possibility for a pendulum. I actually found this route easier than Atman, though placing gear where the feet disappear would definitely warrant the .11a rating. Apr 18, 2023

Sean Podrecca

[Hide Comment] Poorly placed bolts are set up for top rope. They cause any carabiner to flex over the week axes. Would be fine if chains were added. Sep 22, 2023

Ryan DeLena Sudbury MA / Bar Harbor ME   5.11a

[Hide Comment] As of December 27, 2023, there is no fixed anchors on Atman, or Yin and Yang Crack. Bring some finger sized pieces and you can build on at the top. I was able to lower and have a follower second with no drag. Walk off is just around the back. Dec 29, 2023

Mitchell McAuslan Spokane, WA

[Hide Comment] This climb does not have a bolted anchor. It is not very straightforward or super safe to make a trad anchor on this climb. It is much safer and more straightforward to make a gear anchor on Atman. May 24, 2024

Bryan K Chattanooga

[Hide Comment] Bolts are back above the topout for the route. You'll still need some long slings (120cm at least) or cord to get the masterpoint over the edge when using them. Nov 29, 2024

Wren Cooperrider Flagstaff, AZ   5.11a

[Hide Comment] Sure this would probably get 5.10 at josh or the valley, but since it's in red rock I think 11a is perfectly fair. Felt burlier to me than Winter Heat around the corner for what that's worth, though my friends with smaller hands thought it was pretty cruiser. Very pretty route as well. Dec 1, 2024

Lex Torrington Culver City

[Hide Comment] There are 2 glue-ins at the top of the route now. Oct 19, 2025

Crackhead Mike

[Hide Comment] Why is the comment section full of gear beta for a splitter hand crack 6 hours ago

Andy Hansen Longmont, CO   5.11a

[Hide Comment] Crackhead, Roughly 8% of the comments mention explicitly gear beta for the "splitter hand crack." The other comments mention more specifically gear beta for the anchor. I wouldn't call that "full" of comments about gear beta for the climb. Besides, have you climbed this? It's not exactly a "splitter hand crack" considering there are like 3 hand jams on this. 3 hours ago