Classic Wind River climb! Incredibly consistent, classic, sustained (at the grade) backcountry climbing in the west. Classic enough that it made the 50 classicly crowded climbs book, so expect parties to be in the area vying for the early slot. Be prepared to start early anyway to avoid afternoon t-storms that one can't see until they come over the formation from the southwest. You'll see what the fuss is over, though, with the great views, exposure, and beautiful climbing that every pitch offers. Route finding skills will be put to the test in a couple key locations, and retreat after the first 300 feet will be a challenge.
Head up the 3rd class ramp that heads toward the sloping ledge system, traverse and/or downclimb to reach the ledge, thinking about the 2nd as you place gear. Belay just past the ledge where good pro presents itself in the left leaning ramp that leads to the dihedral with a prominent roof.
Climb the dihedral, either belaying below or after the roof.
Climb a long pitch, starting first right, then back left to a fun 5.8 crack and belay.
Ascend the left leaning system of ledges and dihedral cracks for at least 2 pitches (even with a 60m). The Kelsey topo forgets how long this section is. Going right early will end in a dead end.
Do finally head right with some spaced pro up the ledges until the 5.8 flare and 5.9 3" variation become unmistakable back to the left. Struggle up the flare to easier ground and belay left at the ledge.
Continue leftward, past a large flake and up to belay at the base of a crack leading to a chimney continue up or step again left and continue the crack system to for a long pitch and belay.
Head up to the base of either of two chimney systems. Another pitch up either of the chimney sections leads to the east ledges platform.
Another pitch awaits to the upper summit. Ascend to the top, then make a short rappel to gain the summit proper.
Walk/scramble over then down the 3rd class gully to the south to reach the South Face/K cracks rappels (two ropes recommended) 3 or 4 raps lead to the ledge that heads further left to the South Buttress descent.
Location
Cirque of the Towers. Find trails at the north side of the lake at the base, hike left of stream into rock field and scramble left, left of the prominent base of a gently curving ledge that becomes a long dihedral ending at a roof. Rack up on the low-angle rock, then head left up the 3rd-class ramp. Don't be surprised if the start seems somewhat exposed as you head to the left.
Protection
Standard Winds rack, pro to 4" (for the 5.8 flare it's nice to have). Nuts and cams to 1" come in handy, and doubles 1" to 2", one 3", one 4". Little fixed gear, and you probably should prepare to back that up.
This will be 12-13 long pitches with a 50m rope, even though the Kelsey topo shows 11. A 60m rope can conveniently reduce that by 2.
Kelsey's topo is completely off. If you wish to adhere to his maxim of minimal, and in this case, incorrect, information ignore this link. Below is a link to Bruce Binder's ( brutusofwyde ) excellent and detailed NE of Pingora topo from SummitPost:
I did this route and thought you could get by without the #4, just bump your #3 camalot (or Equiv) up another foot once you make the move at the crux. I haven't lead anything over 10c trad. Also, on brutus topo from summitpost belay right of where it says to belay for pitch 8 after making the traverse to a much better stance, below the word "flake" on the topo. Sounds complicated but once you are there you will see it. cheers; -Armin
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 29, 2006
I also didn't think the #4 camalot was necessary, or even useful. I think I placed it in an anchor at one point, but never needed it during the wide pitch.
This is one of the few climbs that wholeheartedly deserves to be in the 50 classics. Superb route. Warning, weather in the Cirque is crazy. No warning when coming.
Fun climb. My wife & I did this on a 3day weekend from Portland and so I mostly remember the driving :) Another vote for Brutus' topo on summitpost above (excellent!).
Pingora
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