Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Kelsey and Dick Williams 1972
Page Views: 4,648 total · 32/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Aug 17, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Interesting 4 or 5 pitch line left of the more popular South Buttress line.
P1 5.7, easy R facing corner to the top of a flake, very featured rock and takes great pro.
P2 5.8, thin crack leads to some awkward moves and then over some stacked blocks to a comfortable belay. TCU's are good for the first 20+ feet. Best pitch on the route in my opinion.
P3 5.7, left trending corner system obvious from below. Semi-groveling, semi-flared system. Actually easier than it appears. You can protect it with small to medium cams. I carried and 2 and 3 camalot but never place either. Long pitch of about 190 feet to alcove below small triangular roof.
P4 5.9, Crux pitch, hardest moves right off the belay to a fun move around the roof above, huge hold for you left hand. Continue up to a big ledge and belay. From here you can continue up through a steep slot or bail to the right

You can move right about 100 feet to the rap anchors at the top of the S. Buttress route. We did this as the slot looked unpleasant and another climber said there was a scary, loose block in the slot.

Location

Walk left from the south shoulder and scramble across to a ledge below the R facing corner. Since you rap right back to this ledge you can leave your shoes, etc. on the ledge.

Protection

TCU's to #3 camalot should suffice. Nuts come in handy also.

Photos

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