Type: Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: James Garrett and Dave Madera with Fred Beckey and Franziska Garrett on the lower pitches, 28-29 August 1994
Page Views: 2,034 total · 21/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Sep 12, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Franziska and I had hiked in ahead of Fred Beckey who was coming in from "somewhere" and he had talked about a climb on Pingora he had wanted to do for more than 25 years. It was located about 100 -125 feet to the right of the Daley route. Eventually he hiked into our camp below the proposed route and the next morning we started up.

We three got up to a big obvious ledge under where the wall begins to steepen and facing afternoon thunderstorms retreated to camp that first day. That evening, Dave Madera from Alta, Utah also arrived in camp and Fred suggested we two carry on with the project while he and Franziska serve as ground support while doing some other recon and hiking. Fred has always seemed to prefer hanging with the ladies if the option is available!! They actually scrambled up a new route while Dave I climbed this the next morning.

Pitch #1: Climb approach slabs and low angle right facing dihedrals. 5.5.

Pitch #2: A long pitch continues up to a very prominent sloping ledge that stretches across the North Face. Fred drilled a bolt here while I was leading the next pitch. 5.10. 60m.

Pitch #3: A steeper corner angles right to easier climbing leads to discontinuous cracks and a ledge right of a prominent flake. Face climb right of the corner until it ends, then turn the roof to the right. Good climbing. 5.10.

Pitch #4: Move left passing a fixed piton passing the discontinuous cracks to a corner. 5.7.

Pitch #5: left and up to connect to a steep right facing dihedral system far left. 5.9

Pitch #6: From a good ledge now in a very solid continuous crack and dihedral system, climb straight up this dihedral/corner to a belay on a pedestal. 5.9

Pitch #7: Due to threatening lightning and thunder, some moves of A0 aid/tension were used to climb a wild and exposed inobvious traverse via a thin seam to better cracks to the left. 5.10, A0

Pitch #8: Brief aid from a fixed pin leads to a a nice (5.7) hand crack. 5.7, AO

Pitch #9: Follow a good crack and some face climbing between small ledge features on the wall. 5.9, 60m.

Pitch #10: Scramble up to a big ledge that leads left to more easy ground. 5.5, 60m.

Pitch #11: Continue to the summit of Pingora. 4th class.

We were caught in a full on thunder storm on the exit pitches. As Dave and I descended the East Ledges, wet and cold, we noticed through the fog and mist two people climbing toward us!!! It was Fred and Franziska climbing up to congratulate us and offer us hot tea.

We felt embarrassed that we had indeed Stolen Fred's Thunder, but he was so supportive, and these warm welcoming drinks offered high on Pingora certainly became the highlight of this climb and the trip. It will always be Fred's route.


North East Face the next obvious crack system to the right of the Daley route.


Full rack of Camalots and Nuts. HP type brass Nuts helpful.
4 bolts and a few pitons left fixed on route.