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All Locations > Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the T… > Pingora > Northeast Face (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)
The knob hold around pitch 8 or 9. You gotta find this knob.
ID 116535850 · · Copyright Violation?
Rapping off
Crux pitch of NE Face, Pingora. Photo credit: from a trip report by SuperTopo user PellucidWombat (http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Pingora-NE-Face/t12248n.html)<br> <br> Based on the below link to an MP.com discussion, the left-most crack is the 5.8 wide option; the thinner middle crack is the 5.9 option that eventually (i.e., mid-pitch) merges with the left-most crack.<br> <br> Over two days last July, 5 out of 6 parties instead went up the longer crack on the right which seems to be an independent and undocumented variation - at least 1 party unknowingly did so (perhaps all 5); I don't know how it compares to the other two options, but I thought it had some 5.10a/b move or two in it. Perhaps others who have done it and another option will chime in on how they compare to each other.<br> <br> Link to MP.com discussion: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/crux-pitch-of-ne-face-pingora-which-way/109395485#a_109397003
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Mike O'Mara
Feb 15, 2019
“The knob hold around pitch 8 or 9. You gotta find this knob.”  

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Nearby Photos

Pingora's Northeast Face approximate route shown. Don't use this as an accurate topo.
P2 - we climbed the face left of the dihedral to start, then crossed over into the dihedral at the rooflet feature (ref. photo). Climbing above this cross over on P2 was sustained and hard.
The view of Lonesome Lake from the Northeast Face, Mt. Mitchell on the right.
Summit of Pingora in June
Rapping off
The knob hold around pitch 8 or 9. You gotta find this knob.
Crux pitch of NE Face, Pingora. Photo credit: from a trip report by SuperTopo user PellucidWombat (http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Pingora-NE-Face/t12248n.html)<br> <br> Based on the below link to an MP.com discussion, the left-most crack is the 5.8 wide option; the thinner middle crack is the 5.9 option that eventually (i.e., mid-pitch) merges with the left-most crack.<br> <br> Over two days last July, 5 out of 6 parties instead went up the longer crack on the right which seems to be an independent and undocumented variation - at least 1 party unknowingly did so (perhaps all 5); I don't know how it compares to the other two options, but I thought it had some 5.10a/b move or two in it. Perhaps others who have done it and another option will chime in on how they compare to each other.<br> <br> Link to MP.com discussion: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/crux-pitch-of-ne-face-pingora-which-way/109395485#a_109397003
P10 - more of a flaring open book shape. Tough 5.6
Pingora summit pano
Gary Hall leading an early pitch, August 1974
Nearing the top of the NE face, as a hail and snow storm sets in.
P6 - start of P6 with P7 off width visible above
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