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Woger's Woof Wightside TR 
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Woger's Woof Wightside 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pete Cleveland, first lead Tom D
Page Views: 1,898
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 25, 2002

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Devils Lake. Henning Boldt pulling the roof on Woo...

Description 

Woger's Woof Wightside is a very tough face climb over the sizeable roof halfway up the wall. To start, either climb up the lower half of Roger's Roof (the rib to the right of the alcove) or climb up out of the alcove itself. Once up to the overhang position yourself to the right of the handcrack in Roger's Roof. Use small fingerholds to pull yourself up past the roof. Continue to the top with challenging face moves.

Protection 

Top Rope


Photos of Woger's Woof Wightside Slideshow Add Photo
Devils Lake. Wooger's Woof. Isaac Therneau about to make the second crux. September, 2008.
Devils Lake. Wooger's Woof. Isaac Therneau about t...
Devils Lake. Isaac Therneau on Wooger's Woof.
Devils Lake. Isaac Therneau on Wooger's Woof.
Devils Lake. Lower moves on Wooger's Woof. Henning Boldt and Isaac Therneau.
Devils Lake. Lower moves on Wooger's Woof. Henning...
Sue Daffinrug easing up Woger's Woof Wightside.
Sue Daffinrug easing up Woger's Woof Wightside.
Woger's Woof Wightside (9), Treachery (10), and Lechery (11)
BETA PHOTO: Woger's Woof Wightside (9), Treachery (10), and Le...
Roger's Roof (8), Wogers Woof Wightside (9), and Treachery (10)
BETA PHOTO: Roger's Roof (8), Wogers Woof Wightside (9), and T...
Sue Daffinrug above the alcove roof of Woger's Woof Wightside.
Sue Daffinrug above the alcove roof of Woger's Woo...
Tom Anderson-Brown trying desperately to get above the alcove roof.
Tom Anderson-Brown trying desperately to get above...
Tom Anderson-Brown bailing out and heading to 5.8-land.
Tom Anderson-Brown bailing out and heading to 5.8-...
Remo, past crux, post wobble.
Remo, past crux, post wobble.

Comments on Woger's Woof Wightside Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 5, 2013
By Anonymous
Mar 28, 2002

F.A. PROBABLY TOMMY D.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 31, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

i keep thinking tommy d. lead this?it is a great climb with some hard moves as fer gear,???
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 8, 2005

This is a tough face. I pulled myself over the roof without using the crack and staying about 2-3 feet to the right of it (not using the right corner either). The face just spit me out and I could not see the moves.

I imagine it will repel many others. Maybe I can get some beta on how to do it.
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Aug 3, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

To climb this, where does the line go exactly? The most natural line heads straight up the bottom face while occasionally grabbing for the large right hand arete. Going through the roof involved using the arete and left hand side-pulls. The face directly through the roof and above without using the right hand arete or being able to reach Rogers Roof crack seemed more 5.12 than 11.

Thanks for any beta.
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Did you feel the grade was appropriate for 5.11c? The roof seemed extremely difficult to do in this manner. It's hard to tell with the picture of the female climbing since she is farther to the right than I went. Does anyone know how the original line was meant to be climbed? The way I went felt 5.11 with two very different cruxes. The first was pulling the roof and the second was even harder and involved a complete balance/imagine you can walk up bumps on the rock kinda crux. The second crux felt 5.11c to me, while the first was 5.11.

Thanks again for any beta/thoughts.
By Alex A
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

It climbs the roof about 2ft right of Rogers roof, the photo of the girl is off route, FA TR Pete Cleveland, Tommy D, did lead this, and call it Amazon Women on the Rise,
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Thanks for the info Alex. I had heard that Tommy D had led it in the past and that the current name was a goof on Pete C's accent.
By Tradoholic
Sep 10, 2010

Right arete off huh? CONTRIVED! Fuck it, it IS the lake I guess.
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Sep 13, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

If you get the two underclings in the roof and pull directly onto the middle of the face you can't reach the right hand arete. The sequence on the route was hard to find but well worth the effort.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 15, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Classic route. Took a bit to get the right beta, then went smooth.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
May 31, 2011

If the right arete is off, then there should be another climb that uses it. There's a terrific sequence that uses the right arete just below the roof to reach high to a left facing side pull just above the roof, then move feet way left to surmount the roof continuing to slap up the arete and use sidepulls. Once above the roof, there are some terrible feet and a couple more difficult moves. Also felt like 11b or 11c.
By Aaron Wait
Sep 5, 2013

On lead, I fell right below the good holds (and pro) 6 - 8 feet above the roof. I didn't place any gear in Rogers and the fall was a little rough on my ankles but not bad. With Very solid pro in the roof and a good belayer this is a sweet lead. I will have to get back on it!