2009 Falcon Closure on Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth MORE INFO >>>
From the Washington Climbers Coalition webpage:
"Summary: As of April 22, 2009, most of Snow Creek Wall is subject to a formal closure to protect falcons that are nesting on Library Ledge, on Outer Space, the most famous climb in Leavenworth. The closure will remain in place through the nesting season, which is expected to end July 31, 2009."
Following the Twin Cracks pitch before getting my ...
Description
Hyperspace is a combination of various pitches on Snow Creek Wall, generally following the left side of the massive "Shield" formation. The climb is in between the two moderate classics, Orbit and Outer Space. Several minor variations exist. This is probably the best multipitch climb in leavenworth, and one of the better multipitch trad routes in the state.
The traditional start is RPM, a runout 5.10+ dirty slab. The more common start is Remorse, which I'll describe.
P1 - 70m - To the left of a shattered chimney system and 4th class ramp (Outer Space start) Follow a low angle, bushy groove and corner, then catch a left trending low angle ramp to a ledge with a small bush on it and many runners, from here traverse left at the base of thin flakes and underclings. Once the flake ends, continue traversing making a thin face/friction move. Pitch ends by a small bush on a sloping ramp. This pitch can also be done with a 60m rope, via very safe and easy simulclimbing.
P2 - 30m - 5.11a - The Psychopath pitch follows a nice finger crack off the left end of the belay ledge. This crack eats up small nuts and cams. After about 1/2 or 2/3 of the crack's length, a few small knobs appear on the left. Move onto these knobs, then from the top of these knobs, swing back right into the crack and up to the belay ledge. Alternatively, its possible to continue to face climb out left of the crack for the remainder of the pitch (5.7R).
P3 - 50m - 5.9 - Follow obvious cracks up a right-trending ramp and corner. There are two small roofs visible overhead. Climb past both of them through cracks on the left, and belay above the second roof, near a tree/bush.
P4 - Step right from the belay (look down and note the massive fresh rock scar!) Follow thin flakes, slabs, and a corner upwards, with better than expected pro. After swinging leftward over an arete and onto a hanging slab, one can build an intermediate belay. Alternatively, climb either the steep corner on the left (looks vegetated, but its not - 5.10c) or the overhung blocky yellow face above (looks loose, it's not - 5.11a). Both of these options have good small gear available. Pitch ends at two bolts and chains on the left side of a corner.
P5 - 40m - 5.10c - Follow the beautiful left-facing corner, past a small tree and bolt (which would be used to link into Outer Space). The crux involves a small face move and stemming off a knob. It's best to continue up easy chimneying and stemming to a ledge and tree visible from below.
P6 - 40m - 5.10d - There are two main corners/chimneys.Eventually be in the rightward one, although both are initially climbable. The left one leads to a sticker bush, move rightward before this point. From the top of the chimney system, face climb leftward (often fixed gear) and make a few desperate and physical moves upward into a flaring/cramped stance (The Pressure Chamber). Face holds on the right wall allow one to stem wildly rightward across the overhang, and reach and thin finger crack, and then a much better positive layback flake. Above this spot, follow the left-facing corner for 25' (5.10a) and then traverse left on a hidden foot ledge to comfortable belay off the hanging slab. This belay takes a #4 C4 and small nuts or cams in the hollow-sounding flake. A less comfortable belay can be made in the corner, off finger-sized gear.
P7 - 30m - 5.10a - Traverse left to the end of the foot ledge and follow the crack up to a roof. Work left around the roof (one 5.10 move)and then runout climbing on 4th class terrain leads to a tree and ledges atop the wall.
Descend to the left (walkoff) as for Outer Space.
This climb might more easily be done in more pitches.
Suggested pitch breakups:
P1 can be split into a low 5th class lead to the belay bush, then a 5.8 traverse.
P3 can be climbed as one short pitch to the slab below the overhanging face and corner, then one pitch to the chain anchors.
P6 can be climbed as one lead to a hanging belay just below the pressure chamber, and one lead to the good stance on the slab belay past the left-facing corner.
Location
Approach Snow Creek Wall via the Snow Lakes Trail. Stay on the trail for ~1.5 miles, until almost past the wall. A trail down through the woods leads to a log crossing on Snow Creek, and up to the wall at the base of P1. The walkoff from the top is to the left.
This is an excellent route; lots of physical crack climbing with amazing positions and exposure! The style reminded me of the Rostrum but easier. I felt the 5.11a Psychopath pitch was more like 10+ after taking the knob exit left. The "overhung blocky face" on P4 is pumpy but has rests. More traffic could really clean this beauty up, some lichen but nothing serious. Great description Blake! Get some!!
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