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Warm Up 1 
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Warm Up 1 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Schmitt
Page Views: 1,802
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Rightmost line of bolts is Warmup 1. The line jus...

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Far right bolted line on warm up wall. Kind of jacked... But alright I suppose.


Warm up wall



Photos of Warm Up 1 Slideshow Add Photo
Top of "Warm Up 1"
Top of "Warm Up 1"
Michael at the anchors after leading Warm-up 1. First route in Gov. Dodge State Park, a nice climb made a bit harder with all the darn wasps.
Michael at the anchors after leading Warm-up 1. Fi...
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By Tradoholic
Jun 26, 2009

For clarification the "Warm ups" 1 and 2 are the two right side routes that share the first bolt. The farthest right route is a bit "jacked" hence my comment below.

To limit "jackedness" stray right after first bolt and then come back at waist level to the second bolt.

Slightly run out to the last bolt. Not for pushing your grade.

Huston calls it "Slab Right" in his topo found here:

By mandyf
From: grand junction, co
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

a good friend of mine did this as her second 5.10a red point. i wouldn't call it jacked...it is a bit runout at the top, but on big holds.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 6, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I agree with Rhoads on this thing's runout between bolts 3 & 4. Not a great route to push your grade on. Solid 5.10a leaders should feel comfortable, but the new 5.9 leader will be gripped between 3 & 4.