Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Qual Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Red Recollection 
Block Party 
Crack left of Leftwing 
Eaten Alive 
Espionage 
Fahrenheit 23 
Great White Top Rope 
Jay Butt Dialed Me Today 
Leftwing 
Long Time Coming 
More Choss Than Moss 
Nordwand, The 
Now or Never 
Nut Job 
Pocket Warmup 
Purple Jeep 
Quail Stew 
Schizophrenia 
Secret Agent Man 
Top Rope Hero 
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" 
Unlisted Number 
Warm Up 1 
Warm Up 2 
Unsorted Routes:

Warm Up 1 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Schmitt
Page Views: 1,802
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Rightmost line of bolts is Warmup 1. The line jus...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Far right bolted line on warm up wall. Kind of jacked... But alright I suppose.


Location 

Warm up wall


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of Warm Up 1 Slideshow Add Photo
Top of "Warm Up 1"
Top of "Warm Up 1"
Michael at the anchors after leading Warm-up 1. First route in Gov. Dodge State Park, a nice climb made a bit harder with all the darn wasps.
Michael at the anchors after leading Warm-up 1. Fi...
Comments on Warm Up 1 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Jun 26, 2009

For clarification the "Warm ups" 1 and 2 are the two right side routes that share the first bolt. The farthest right route is a bit "jacked" hence my comment below.

To limit "jackedness" stray right after first bolt and then come back at waist level to the second bolt.

Slightly run out to the last bolt. Not for pushing your grade.

Huston calls it "Slab Right" in his topo found here:
documents.scribd.com/docs/1i25x7felmh3df16lh5a.pdf

By mandyf
From: grand junction, co
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

a good friend of mine did this as her second 5.10a red point. i wouldn't call it jacked...it is a bit runout at the top, but on big holds.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 6, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I agree with Rhoads on this thing's runout between bolts 3 & 4. Not a great route to push your grade on. Solid 5.10a leaders should feel comfortable, but the new 5.9 leader will be gripped between 3 & 4.