Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. MORE INFO >>>
The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).
Starts on a thin pillar. This section is not always in.
Location
Hike about .40 miles from the gate keeping your eyes on the South wall until 3 routes come into view. Climb the gully. White Angle of Fear is the formation on the far left. Rappel the trees. Two ropes.
A few corrections: The Ice Guide to Utah by Dave Black erroneously named this route. The correct name is just "Angel of Fear".
The length of Angel of Fear is more like 300'. It's also 3 pitches long...there is an approach pitch. You need to have a cold, wet season for this amazing pillar to form.
Most of the time I try not to give star ratings to my own routes because I like to see what others rate them without my input.
That said, because the climb was so unique, I would give it a 4 star / classic rating. The climbing was continually steep and challenging. The ice varied from solid to hollow. There were ice caves, hidden passages, bazaar mushroom formations, chimneys, mandatory overhangs that had to be climbed and long sections of vertical ice.
Seth Shaw & Doug Heinrich made the 2nd ascent, (The ice hadn't quite touched down), they were psyched about the quality.
I've seen it form up at least twice since our ascent in 1985. When it comes in again, I'm there.
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