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Unsorted Routes:

Tunnel Vision 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 770'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Herbst & Grandstaff '74
Page Views: 20,112
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 12, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Complete topo of Tunnel Vision as seen from the pa...

Description 

Tunnel Vision is one of the most fun, unique, moderate routes that Red Rocks has to offer. It climbs up the Angel Food Wall in 6 pitches. A lot of chimneys are encountered, and even a vertical spelunking pitch. Identify the start of Tunnel Vision by a crack which intersects a roof only 15' off the ground.

P1) 5.6 Climb the right facing corner for 15', then hand traverse at the roof right for a few feet until the main crack system is reached. Follow this crack system up, then through a chimney to the first belay. Make sure to watch out for rope drag around the opening corner.

P2) 5.4 Chimney up the wide easy chimney, belaying at a fixed anchor.

P3) 5.7 Another chimney pitch. This pitch is hard to protect, and is steeper and more narrow than the previous chimney. Stops at a huge ledge.

P4) 5.5 Continue up most of a rope length to another huge ledge.

P5) 5.3 Climb left into the vertical tunnel. This is a very interesting and unique pitch. However, the rock is quite slick, and pro is scarce until climbing out the other side of the tunnel. Finish with a short crack to another big ledge.

P6) 5.5 Climb the excellent handcrack in the left facing dihedral to the top of the climb.

Descent) The descent is an easy gully system that has an optional one rope rappel en route. This is to the left of the climb.

There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey

Protection 

Standard Rack, some large pieces are helpful. The gear is plentiful except for the mostly unprotectable tunnel pitch.


Photos of Tunnel Vision Slideshow Add Photo
Belayer setting up at the entrance to the tunnel.
Belayer setting up at the entrance to the tunnel.
Topo for Tunnel Vision
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Tunnel Vision
Peter following my questionable variation of p3.  ...
Peter following my questionable variation of p3. ...
David Andretta looking over the ledge with the dri...
BETA PHOTO: David Andretta looking over the ledge with the dri...
Mark Regier on the 3rd pitch chimney.
Mark Regier on the 3rd pitch chimney.
Me on the last pitch of Tunnel Vision. What an awe...
Me on the last pitch of Tunnel Vision. What an awe...
EJ at the large and comfy 3rd belay.
EJ at the large and comfy 3rd belay.
Waiting my turn to start the tunnel pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Waiting my turn to start the tunnel pitch.
Mark Regier with great hand jams on pitch 6.
Mark Regier with great hand jams on pitch 6.
Leading up pitch 4 looking down.
Leading up pitch 4 looking down.
The top! :)
The top! :)
Tunnel Vision route shown by red line.
BETA PHOTO: Tunnel Vision route shown by red line.
Having Fun on Tunnel Vision
Having Fun on Tunnel Vision
Pitch 4 of Tunnel Vision from the Purblind Pillar ...
Pitch 4 of Tunnel Vision from the Purblind Pillar ...
Derek leading the proud line finish to pitch 6.
Derek leading the proud line finish to pitch 6.
Worth every minute getting up there
Worth every minute getting up there
Peter Gram tunneling through Pitch 5.  No pro!
Peter Gram tunneling through Pitch 5. No pro!
Jerry entering the squeeze chimney on pitch 2.
Jerry entering the squeeze chimney on pitch 2.
1st pitch-careful on cleaning route ,can be a litt...
1st pitch-careful on cleaning route ,can be a litt...
Derek leading pitch 4.
Derek leading pitch 4.
Peter Gram on the fun, easy second pitch chimney.
Peter Gram on the fun, easy second pitch chimney.
Me leading the tunnel.  photo by Derek Wehling
Me leading the tunnel. photo by Derek Wehling
Mark Regier on the opening of pitch one.  Best to ...
Mark Regier on the opening of pitch one. Best to ...
Belaying at the entrance to the infamous tunnel pi...
Belaying at the entrance to the infamous tunnel pi...

Show All 46 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Tunnel Vision Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 24, 2014
By Jeff L.
Mar 26, 2004

There is a new Variation to Tunnel Vision. A 4 bolt direct start (5.9) about 30 yards from the original line that will take you all the way to the 2nd station on Tunnel Vision with a 200 foot rope. Once at the 2nd Station look left for a bolt and continue up the crack. Remain in the crack and avoid the chimney (5.8) or after about 20 feet or so look left again and you should spot a bolt line running further left. This is a 2 pitch (5.7-5.8) bolted variation to Tunnel Vision that will take you to the platform belay at the entrance to the tunnel. Great way to avoid a conga line on Tunnel Vision.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2004

It's possible to get off-route at the start of pitch 2 if you select the righthand chimney. The comment in the Urioste guide on pitch 2 "bearing left where choices present themselves" should not be ignored. We bore right and ended up on "Stilgar's Wild Ride", but after a pitch you can wander back left and come back into Tunnel Vision before entering the tunnel.
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Apr 14, 2004

There is gear in the tunnel. You can't sew it up but I got two or three pieces in the back wall. Just look around...
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 28, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Enjoyed this climb a lot today. Started at 11am and was in the shade all day. Just for the sake of accuracy, the pair of bolts at the top of pitch 2 have had their hangers removed. It's not a big deal, there is a suitable vertical crack in that same location for use as a belay anchor. Some people link pitches 2 and 3.
By Burly Dog Deisel aka Chris Taylor
Sep 23, 2005

I recently lost my camera on pitch 3. It fell into plain view, but i couldnt get down to rescue it.

If anyone finds it, please return the memory card to me, i'm not bothered about the camera, but the card contains around 190 photos of our honeymoon and are irreplaceable.

Please return to :-

Bruce Bryan24 Ashvale RdWalesbyNr NewarkNottinghamshireNG22 9LYEngland

brucecbryan@hotmail.com

ThanksBruce.
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 24, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

For those interested, Bruce's camera has been recovered.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 1, 2007

Very mediocre IMHO. So many better routes in RR.
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Great route with unique experiences!! Pitch one is pretty fun but even if you do not place any gear in the first 15 feet (recommend NOT placing any gear hear to prevent rope drag); your rope can get stuck in a crack when you climb past the first big ledge so use gear to keep the rope from some heinous drag, it sucks. Pitch 2 is easy and fun. Pitch 3 I took the variation on the left face following a thin crack the opens and closes up; not too terribly difficult but heady for sure. Pitch 4 is pure fun and totally casual!! The tunnel pitch 5 is a cool experience and unique but fairly serious IMHO; not too hard but you sure as hell wouldn't want to slip on the slippery rock. The last pitch was the best pitch by far with super fun mini-roof moves that are a dream!! Have at it and have fun; just be a little careful.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 1, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

For those interested, the bolts are back on the top of the 2nd pitch. I think this is their third appearance in as many years!
By jblackattack
From: las vegas, nv
Sep 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I heard a lot about this climb before hand but unfortunately it did not live up to its praise for me. I would barley give this climb 1.5 stars. There are much better climbs on this wall.
By Steve123
Apr 14, 2008

In March 2008, the pitch 2 anchor bolts were still present. This is a semi-hanging belay and good rope management (e.g. lap coiling) here is important, as the crack below this station eats ropes. I spent a good amount of time freeing up the stuck rope of the party above me. There were cut-off pieces of other ropes stuck in the same spot.

In the tunnel, there are a few good tricam placements in pockets in the back wall.
By George Wilson
From: Las Vegas
Oct 21, 2008

If anyone is missing Chewbacca I found him...Heady 3rd pitch! I'm not kidding about Chewbacca, I really found him!
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

for anyone of the 17 folks who climbed tunnelvision on oct 25th, if'n you found a grey stuffsack with a pair of shells in it, i'd LOVE to get them back. give me a shout and postage and a beer is yours!
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Nov 22, 2008

A headlamp for the tunnel is quite silly, not dark enough in there for it to really make a difference.
By Ron Graham
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Tall people need not be very concerned about the relative lack of pro in the 5th pitch; the ceiling contains numerous shelves and big pockets that make it very easy to keep your feet at 90 degrees to the slick rock face as you stem up it. For shorter people who can't stem the route as well, we found 3 good placements: 1.) a small parallel crack about 15 feet up that will take a BD microcam or a ball nut, 2.) a larger pocket on the ceiling another 15 feet up that will take a small cam, and 3.) a pocket on the right side of the bulge on the face just after which you reach the shelf that traverses out of the tunnel.

The face alternative for pitch 3 has cracks and pockets that can be sewn up with pro. It also has relatively good holds on it but you must traverse back into the chimney at the top (hardest moves for this variation.) I did a layback to get up and over the top, but my partners found there are parallel cracks that let you hug the pillar as you ascend near the top of the chimney.

I give this a PG-13 rating because of the spicy start. You need to use your feet well there but it can be hard to see all the delicate footplacements if you're wearing an over-the-shoulder sling of pro. However, the parallel crack at the top goes from sloper where there are good foot placements to bomber edge where the feet get thin. If you lose foot traction on the face at that point you can pick it up quickly my moving your feet around the corner into the groove. Since it's a little blind, this could be the hardest move on the route.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 25, 2008

Did this with the face variations for the 1st and 4th? pitches. Brock topo is inaccurate at best, and the thing seems to have sprouted some extra belays. 1st pitch variation is about 60' with 4 bolts, not the 160' Brock gives it. Don't miss the tunnel pitch if doing the variations, at a point after passing the second bolted anchor on the upper variation, about 20' below an obvious wide crack (~6"), traverse right around a sandy blunt/rounded corner to belay on the ledge below the tunnel. Definitely recommend the variations. You can link the tunnel pitch and last pitch with a 70m (may need to simul a few feet).
By Erik in NC
From: Greensboro, NC
Mar 19, 2009

Pitch 1: Somewhat scary starting traverse with fall to ground if you miss-step. Protection is slightly sparse this pitch.
Pitch 2: Fun pitch, not very long though. Bolts at belay station are present but not strictly necessary as there was a crack in which an anchor could be built. We lost a good bit of time with some poor rope management here.
Pitch 3: Did the face climb variant. Face bolt was helpful, protection was good until crux, at which point I found it a bit lacking.
Pitch 4: Fun. Don't know if there was many opportunities for placements after going around the roof. I just dealt with the runout on very easy climbing.
Pitch 5: Also fun. Placements somewhat sparse but adequate (esp as getting here means you are comfortable leading in the 5.7+ range). I climbed up about 20 feet and found two stopper placements, traversed left and found a small cam placement in the back wall, had a placement at the lodged rock, and then continued a traverse left out of the tunnel. Last few feet of traverse were a bit tricky and had no protection, but handholds exist on the back wall. Remainder was easy climbing.
Pitch 6: Climbed the crack to the roof then traversed left, as we were short on time and tired. Fun climbing with plenty of protection.

Overall a fun rout, esp. from pitch 4 on. The descent took a lot longer than I was expecting. Plan for about an hour and a half. We did it with no rappel.
By Jay Holland
From: Henderson, NV
Mar 31, 2009

Great Route, but respect the lack of areas for pro. The third pitch can be pretty run out and though it is only 5.7 a slip caused quite a painful fall. May want to look at the variation for this pitch. Not sure what the variation is rated but it does have a few bolts for pro(ewww) but safe. Great views!
By Tim Anders
From: Las Vegas
Jun 17, 2009

I agree, not worthy of the stars. Purblind Pillar is way more fun.
By Tyson Anderson
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Really fun route. The last two pitches are the best in my opinion and the third pitch just sucks. I was able to place one micro-nut in the tunnel but I didn't look really hard for other placements. The tunnel isn't as scary as some have said, it's just really fun unusual climbing.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 31, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As of October, 09, the hangers are back on at the bolted anchor atop P2. The variation to P.3, which clips a bolt just above the bolted belay and then heads a few feet left to a shallow right facing corner/crack, is excellent, soft for 5.8, and well-protected all the way to back into the chimney. You will have to run out the last 15 feet or so of the chimney, but the rail on the left edge of the chimney offers amazing holds and the stemming is easy. In the tunnel, DO NOT go up past the chockstone that is visible straight up--go up twenty five feet or so, then head almost horizontally left along a ramp to reach the "window" mentioned in the guides. What a fun little route.
By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 19, 2010

I highly recommend the following linkup!

Did the first pitch of tunnel vision, just to find a long line at the top of the pitch. Decided to do the next few pitches of Stilgards Wild Ride (5.8) which meets up w/tunnel vision belay at the base of the "tunnel" pitch, and then finished on tunnel vision. This combo makes for a bunch of great pitches - three stars for sure!

And the "tunnel" pitch really wasn't that great, IMHO.
By Drederek
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Black Dagger was way better, this one didn't live up to the hype.
By Joe Cayer
From: Mesa, Az
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Just climbed this one on Friday. Have to say that I was disappointed. I'd heard mixed reviews about it but wanted to climb just the same. I wouldn't go on this one again, interesting climb but nothing particularly great about it.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Apr 5, 2011

Bring a pink and red tri-cam for the tunnel pitch.
After exiting the tunnel, if you're comfortable doing so, consider climbing a bit up the corner before placing gear. This will minimize any swing into the corner if your second comes off in the tunnel.
By Mike M
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 20, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

#3.5 camalot and #4 C4 provides a handy overlap on almost every pitch.

Pink and red tricam was a great suggestion! There's only one place they'll fit that I found, and it was a perfect equalized pair with two shoulder slings. I also managed to stick an orange metolius TCU in the back wall a few moves up from the tricams, which made the follower more confident, but had she slipped I bet the pendulum would've ripped it from the soft flare.

The stemming at the end of the tunnel had me sketched, and I opted to go diagonally upward about 15' to obtain the crack - BAD choice, as this final chimney was very difficult.

Don't let the comments, above, sandbag you. The rating is legit, and the P3 chimney climbing is thin and difficult. Guidebooks seem to imply that the hand traverse on P1 is the crux, but I honestly didn't have much trouble there. Make sure leader and follower are both solid chimney climbers for this one.
By Peter Pitocchi
Apr 22, 2011

the Tunnel pitch is much harder than 5.3 to me I am 6 feet felt sustained 5.7+ happily I was following. Surprised to hear anybody getting pro, though I didn't really look myself.
By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

It isn't necessarily the most aesthetic line or movement, but I thought it was a fun route, worth doing for the novelty of the chimney pitch alone.

Make sure you sing the theme song from Mario during the tunnel pitch--it helps you send.
By Cultivating Mass
Aug 21, 2011

Classic every time. Funky, old school, varied, R rated for sure, though fairly easy and doable for solid 5.8 leaders. A good adventure.
By RAZORsharp
From: Carlsbad CA
Feb 21, 2012

I thought this was a great climb, a real, by any means necessary movement through some steller looking sandstone. I led pitches 1-3, linking 2 and 3. I would not recommend this, as there was severe rope drag, making the crux off-width very heady. Marginal gear in the crux, but the climbing is solid, mostly. I was luckily on a 70m rope, or else i would've been short roped moving out of the crux chimney onto thin, albeit good hold on the face. Some good smaller cams/ nuts work well in the pocketed face. I DEFINITELY made it an R, facing a 30ft+ run out through the crux until I was able to place an old style BD 4. you can place that size more than once on the crux pitch.I thought the cave pitch was awesome, although I dont think climbing it with a heavy pack was a good idea...

Descent is awesome, providing an incredible view the whole way down. look for cairns before committing to any descent, as some trails lead you to a quick drop. Id recommend gloves, and some warm gear as the belays are always in the shade, and get very cold. Dont forget your headlamp, as parties above make for an almost guaranteed epic. Started at 1030am, was back at the car at 830 pm....
By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 26, 2012

Alternate 5.9 start to the right is well worth while. Fun moves.
By Scott Sebring
Mar 25, 2012

it was fun,amazing ,awesome,committing,scary,sketchy,but had the time of my life,was alo my 1st multi-pitch,ended up not getting down till dark and couldnt find my partners pack and had car keys in it and walked 7 miles to the visitors center and had to sleep in the bathroom but my partner and me were in such good spirits that we laughed off and on through out the night.
By D Dyreson
Mar 28, 2012

On 3/28/12 we lost a GoPro camera on this climb. If you happen to find it please PM me. Lost mid way up the climb. Thanks!
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Do the chimney on pitch 3. Adds a lot of spice. I bumped my #4 cam up for about the first 40 feet, and then left it and did a couple face moves around the very vertical offwidth. After I got a nut and a cam placed on the face around the vertical offwidth, I reached back and grabbed my #4 cam out of the crack and took it up. My partner thanked me. There is a variation where you can climb the face out left on bolts, but it's a trad route! The face moves were reachy in the offwidth section. But they protected nicely. I really ran out the pitches I led, but felt pretty secure. This would be very heady for someone at their limit, so I rated the route PG-13. Mostly because of the third pitch. I placed 3 pieces in the tunnel on the back wall in pockets, as others have described. But 3 pieces in 80 feet is pretty run out for most people. Agreed that a headlamp is not necessary, but helped me find the pockets and make sure the gear was placed well. Inside the tunnel, head towards the back of the tunnel and stem off of the wall opposing the face. Not marked very well by chalk.

Pitches 1, 2, 3, and 5 all included chimney moves of some sort, so get ready for chimneying. Not difficult chimney moves, but chimney nonetheless. Packs may get in the way a bit, especially when the chimney gets tighter, but we both wore packs and were glad to have the water. Pitch 4 is an absolute joy. Big jugs and a great protectable crack the whole way up to the cave entrance.

Bees followed us up the entire route! Even in the cave! My partner got stung at the bottom of the route. So annoying.

Note on the single rope rap: we descended as per the cairns for about 100 yards. The trail leads to the right across a couple ledges. Where the trail appears to go down steeply (would require some pretty serious downclimbing), there is a good sized juniper tree. We passed the rope around the tree and used it as a rap station. There aren't any bolts to rap off of, or even a sling around the tree, but you can see the rope marks around the tree where others have done the same thing.

Route was mostly in the shade all day and pleasant to climb, even in early June with ambient temperatures near 100.

Took full rack of Metolius master cams, full rack of BD camalots to #4, a full set of nuts, and 12 slings. Was glad to have the pro options. I did pitch 1 in two sections to avoid rope drag. There is a rock with a bunch of slings around it at the top of pitch 1, pitch 2 has a bolted belay, pitch 3 had a rock with ropes slung around it I used for the belay, pitch 4 was a gear anchor, pitch 5 was a gear anchor, and pitch 6 was a gear anchor. I really don't understand when you look at the topo for the route and see a 150 foot pitch requiring a gear anchor, and the guide book recommends a single rack...
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 14, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Please do NOT pass your ropes around trees to rappel- its very bad for the tree and your rope.

In this particular case, given that the rappel avoids a 20' section of 3rd class, its not even necessary to rappel.

If you must rap, sacrifice a sling. Thanks.
By Justin.Trayford
Jun 14, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I did this not to long ago with a buddy of mine. We did the bolted variation at the start to get around a large (slow)party. The bolted start was fun. A lot of big moves to big jugs.

Pitch 2 was a fun easy chimney with more pro then you know what to do with.

Pitch 3 sucked!(IMHO) I was so happy I was leading the even pitches after getting thru that mess. It's a hard to protect off-width climb. This is a 5.7+ "R" pitch. Stay calm and keep your head straight (the climbing isn't "hard" it's very heady and the lack of good pro adds to the head game)..you'll get thru it and be rewarded by a large ledge to rest on (we ate lunch and took in the views).

Pitch 4 Pull the easy roof with jugs. After that it's like climbing a ladder. Don't get fooled by the "small" cave ledge you'll see. Just keep going up. The top of this pitch is the gigantic tunnel ledge.

Pitch 5 starts on that epic ledge I mentioned. Don't drop anything you'll never be able to retrieve it! You will see all sorts of dropped gear just out of reach. If you are adventurouse and are looking for lost booty you can cash in here with prior planning. Anyways the tunnel I'm 5'10 200lbs of fatty so the tunnel wasn't scary. Just think like a puffer if you slip! Don't let the lack of protection intimidate you! The climbing is easy and secure (my opinion.) Make sure you face the many and abundent holds while going up this section. It's all in the way you face!

Pitch 6 is a nice crack. We went up to the traverse ledge (you will see the ledge to climbers left), built an anchor (below the hard looking part...you'll see), and the belay man cleaned and shot out around the ledge. This keeps rope drag down especially walking out and around the ledge. It's got some nice exposure walking around the ledge.

Descent: If you came this far might as well just walk out. No need to rap! The gully walk is well marked with cairns. It is steep at first and has a couple 4th class moves. You will see the wash below and above the wash is an old road which will take you back to the parking area.

Car to car 5 hours. Keep in mind we were slowed by a party ahead of us and did lunch on the top of P3 and tried to recover dropped gear on the top of P4.
By marc g
From: San Francisco, CA
Nov 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Tunnel vision probably cured my affinity for chimneys. I like them enough, and I was pretty happy about stemming thru the narrow stuff on the 1st and 2nd pitch. Even when I had to set up below the bolts on the 2nd belay station and build an anchor an a narrow chimney that barely fit me, nevermind my partner. No, the thing that cured me was that long slog up the chimney on the 3rd pitch with the 'grunty' face transition. I had hung my backpack off my harness with a sling, and I was just tired of having to deal with that trying to sabotage my legs. On pitch 5, after the tunnel, we didn't belay immediately outside the tunnel as some guides suggest. The belay 50 ft up worked fine.

The tunnel was pretty cool, especially when we topped out and my friends that were climbing Sandy Hole (starting to the left of us) were below, on the ledge to the right of us.

Also, we had 3 different topos, and they were totally different in regards to belays and ratings. The most accurate diagram was probably Supertopo.
By Aaron Wait
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

On the crux pitch 3 with the words "climb onto the face" ringing in my head I climbed up the face to the (climbers) right of the crux chimney. I pulled a 5.9ish move to a good hold, placed a red alien backed up by a small nut, then followed flakes and crimps in a traverse further over onto the exposed face of the wall between P3 and stilgar's wild ride. Some adrenaline and the presence of fairly decent holds kept me traversing out onto the face where I encountered a large loose block which was the first indication to myself that I may have been off route. I managed to find a blue alien placement in a horizontal. Then following decent holds up the slabby face I found a green(or yellow) alien placement in a hollow flake. I then ran it out to the top of the pillar and hit a large ledge. Some easy traversing back (climbers) left got me to the regular belay ledge above pitch 3.

I do not think this was the variation discussed in the comments above as there were no bolts and the comments above describe climbing to the left of the crux chimney pitch (p3). Anyone else climb right like I did? Traversing out onto the face was exposed and fun and there was some gear..
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
May 4, 2013

got on this to enjoy the wide P3. belayed at a more comfortable ledge about 15 ft below the P2 anchor bolts. didn't find the P3 initial section "smooth" like books or some said. nice sequence of features to keep going up on, not abundant but just enough. brought two #4's but ended up not needing to stretch into main crack to place them. adequate pro up to one blue Camalot within arm's length just left of crack for the upper half of that wide stretch. fun roof at start of P4 too, adventurous P5 tunneling, and wild P6 roof just before topout. many stretches of happy jugs throughout, thought all pitches fun. went with two 28 oz water bottles to not have a pack, one clipped to each side, just enough for route (shaded from morning sun by dihedrals much of way) and sunny walkoff on a hot day
By austin ely
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this on Saturday, left a shiny new sling and quicklink on the juniper tree.

Super fun route; may have made the tunnel harder than it needed to be by climbing up about 20 feet from the final traverse ledge into the 1-2 foot squeeze before traversing. I'm not super experienced with chimneys but it felt about 5.8 and scary with the runout. Exhilarating, and it made that hand crack feel oh so sweet at the end.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Please dont create rap stations on the descent for this route- they are not needed. There is a short 3rd class section- it looks like it wont go at first- but if you follow the cairns and keep moving downward, it works out well.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 11, 2013

Really wish we could have finished this route, but had to bail from halfway up the second pitch due to rain. Led P1, which had a pretty attention-getting start.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A few things:

1. The bolts are still there.

2. The approach and descent are EXCEEDINGLY well-cairned.

3. It was in the low 90's today in town and it was very comfortable climbing in the shade. If I weren't rope soloing and thus constantly moving I may have even been kinda cool at belays with the breeze that the upper portion of the route receives.

4. Had the place to myself. Didn't suck, but was kinda unnerving rope soloin' a long route for the first time.

5. The tunnel does not require a headlamp. Just solid chimney technique.

That being said, I wasn't particularly impressed with the route with the exception of the tunnel pitch. Beyond that it was lackluster, and I like the wide stuff.

Weston
By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jun 6, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Excellent Summer climb! Had the entire wall to ourselves this Tuesday. Cracks and chimneys provide natural air conditioning.. Started route about 8:30 and in the shade almost entirety of day, including excellent descent trail. Only bad part was hike to car at 2:30 pm with temp over 100.

Pitch 3 squeeze is fabulous! Give it a 7 plus pg13 though due to sparse gear and technical footwork! A green big bro was nice for the crux.

Great day!
By Mike Harris DFW
From: DFW, Texas
Oct 3, 2013

Climbed with 3 others and we all agree that the opening hand traverse is way, way harder than 5.7 and PG+++. The pro, a nut placement that would hold a fall, will lead to a pendulum back into the wall and not protecting to avoid rope drag will lead to a serious deck. I just don't get it. That said, the rest of the route was fun. The 3rd pitch crux went a lot better out on the face.

Descended in the dark and were very grateful that cairns amundo marked the way.
By Nickel
From: Henderson (Vegas), NV
Feb 21, 2014

Wednesday, Feb19- Dropped one shoe in the dark, likely near base of Tunnel Vision. Light green La Sportiva Mythos size 6 (euro 36)... Have you found it?! It would surely make my day! Thanks for looking out.

Otherwise, super fun climb and nice amount of cairns on the way out. Cheers!
By Michael Douglas
From: Redlands, Ca
Mar 19, 2014

Did the face variation. Super fun, well protected mixed (mostly bolted) - so may bolts that I found myself skipping bolts and pulling carabineers off my cams. I hate chimney and it was a GREAT alternative (4 stars); also made things fast. Started climbing around 9am back to the car by 1pm.
By Rob Griffiths
Apr 25, 2014

On Pitch 6, we anchored just below a final roof section (after the crack pitch exiting the tunnel). From here, I pulled through the roof and wandered up and right up the blank looking face. I thought this was the "Steep finish" pointed out by Handren (P6). I found myself on a steep face with a headwall about 30-40ft up. A few smaller pieces of gear could be placed early on but that was it for a while. Eventually, I passed the steeper "headwall" by traversing and finding some intricate holds up and right. This resulted in a top out at some large boulders . I found this variation "interesting" on lead. A guide and his client, followed me and my partner shortly after and agreed with the interesting part. Has anyone else made a similar modification to the normal route and I am wondering an approximate grade? I'm not sure I would intentionally lead this again, but it made for a fairly wild ending to an already awesome route.
By Cultivating Mass
Apr 25, 2014

^^^Been there, done that. My first time on the route, I pebble wrestled above 00 TCUs and other thinness, broke off a bunch of the moki marbles as I went (not stressful, I always hyperventilate like that) and topped out direct. Fun, once it's over. After passing the roof you hang a left, it's easy to miss.
By GJV
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
May 1, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Great route with some definite spice! I consider myself a 5.7ish trade leader and didn't find any of the climbing above my comfort zone, but definitely thought IMHO that there were some areas that you need to feel comfortable well above your gear. On the 3rd pitch chimney/ off-width, I wandered out left and clipped one face bolt and placed gear in a short vertical crack. Ultimately I wandered back right into the off-width to finish the pitch although there was an additional face bolt that looked like it would allow you to continue straight up the face. The tunnel pitch I thought was awesome and much less committing than what I thought it would be. If you use the outside wall as well, it is extremely secure. I placed my first piece of gear after I exited the tunnel and at no point did I ever feel insecure with the moves. Overall it was an excellent route with added adventure because of the run-out overall nature of the route. Enjoy and be safe!!!
By jacobleowook
Aug 3, 2014

A local climber informed us that there were no more bees. We unfortunately came to find out that he was just lucky enough not to have seen them. After the tunnel pitch we were followed by 2 small swarms of aggressive bees. Literally the bees were flying in our pants, shoes, and landing on us. Unless you like added adrenaline by being stung I would skip this route. Luckily we had tweezers in our pack to pull out the stinger.
By gavinsmith
From: Toronto, Ontario
Sep 3, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I managed to go the wrong way in the tunnel. I recalled 'go towards the light' briefly and went for the first light I saw, which was up, without thinking. Nope. Left and straight, horizontal. My second had fun tracing my steps to get the couple very high pieces I'd put in the back wall.

We did get stuck behind a slow party of 3 at the bottom of the 3rd pitch. Went around to the right, it was a pleasant variation to the entrance of the tunnel.
By Likeasummerthursday
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Sep 30, 2014

Agree that this route is not really something to write home about.

That said, we got bees on second and third belays.
Pitch one hand traverse is easy but poorly protected.
Singles to #4. Handren's " optional big piece" would be appreciated on p3, but I wouldn't bring it.
Carrying/hauling pack is no fun.
Rock is high quality, and if you dig moderate chimneys, this is the route!
Leader used headlamp in the tunnel and found it helpful, but he only placed one piece anyway.

Descent: follow the cairns! It is well marked. We saw one rapell anchor. We didn't use it. Squeeze the slot next to it. Very easy.
By Ryan Stefani
Oct 17, 2014

I love this climb. After we got on route and found the two bolt anchor at the top of P2, I got P3. There was one bolt on the fact and the rest was gear. I didn't notice any old chopped bolts either. I'm curious where the bolts were.

P3 was stellar. P4 was okay, but P5 and 6 were great. P5 was just fun and different an cool. P6 was a wonderful moderate, steep corner to a wonderful and easy roof. We went all the way to the back corner on 5.0 an 4th class terrain and just walked down with only about 10' of down climbing total.

If you looking for something different than the crimp, high-step, crimp, high-step nature of many of the climbs, this one is it!

Note: be sure to head left in the tunnel pitch up the ramp towards the window!
By Barrett Stetson
Oct 24, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Climbed this mainly because the tunnel pitch sounded unique, even though I kind of hate chimneys, so it was my own fault, but wasn't really into this climb. Found the first pitch hand traverse less secure than I was hoping since I didn't put in any gear to avoid drag. Pitch 2 not bad. Pitch 3 sucked. Not sure if I got sucked too far in, but I got into a spot midway up that didn't have very secure feet and was too tight to really smear, and no gear in. Wish I had tried the bolted 5.8 variation. Pitch 4 easy. Pitch 5 was actually kind of cool, and didn't find moves very hard, just chimney and stem off back, take it slow and think your moves through. One piece of gear until you reach corner exiting tunnel. Pitch 6 was ok too. Built intermediate anchor after coming up to standing position after going through roof so second could hear me, otherwise would have been impossible. Then a short jaunt up face going around left side to get to gully. Long way down gully and I thought some of the down climbing was not trivial and wasn't quite expecting that. Wouldn't bring seconds on this who aren't fairly comfortable with some technical down climbing.

ps - dropped little gray 00 mastercam down into crack maybe 10' from entrance to tunnel pitch, maybe 8' down. Just sitting there. Probably could fish out with fishing line and weighted hook or something without too much work if anyone is interested.