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Finger of Fate 
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Sundevil Chimney 
World's End 

The Titan 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jun 20, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The Titan

Description 

The Titan is the largest of the Fisher Towers, and the largest free standing tower in the United States. The Titan was also the first tower in the Fishers to be cimbed. Layton Kor's ascent of the Finger of Fate was the subject of an article in National Geographic, and the climb is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Harvey Carter, not to be outdone, added the incredible plumb line Sundevil Chimney, and later harder routes were added by Jim Beyer, Walt Shipley, and Duane Raleigh among others. Stevie Haston made an impressive attempt to free the Finger of Fate, but still had to resort to a few moves of aid - so the Titan is still awaiting a FFA.

Update - Stevie Haston has apparently freed the Sundevil Chimney at 5.13 This is pretty mind blowing - if the Titan can be freed probably any tower can.


Getting There 

Walk along the trail until at the base of the Titan. Sundevil Chimney is the first route reached. To reach the Finger of Fate, keep traversing around the base until it is possible to scramble up on ledges.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Titan:
Finger of Fate   5.8 A2     Aid, Grade V   
Sundevil Chimney   5.9 A3     Aid, Grade VI   
Browse More Classics in The Titan

Featured Route For The Titan
Todd Gordon on The Sundevil Chimney.  Photo  Todd Gordon Collection

Sundevil Chimney 5.9 A3  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Titan
This was my first real nailing route, and is still one of the best routes I've ever done. It is awesome! This route climbs the obvious fluted chimney system on the south face of the tower. We climbed it in two days, on the first day we fixed to the top of pitch 2 and finished the rest of the pitches the following day. We ran out of water, it was over 100 degrees. All we had were pop tarts, and I will never eat pop tarts again as long as I live.P1- Climb the blocky crack systems up to the ro...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of The Titan Slideshow Add Photo
The Titan from the Mystery Towers

BETA PHOTO: The Titan from the Mystery Towers


BETA PHOTO
This is a tower.

This is a tower.

silhouette of the titan in all its glory...

silhouette of the titan in all its glory...

Titan

Titan

Here is the doctored photoshop version!  I like it better.

Here is the doctored photoshop version! I like it...

Sunrise

Sunrise

Scenic views off the Titan. Photo: Bob Horan

Scenic views off the Titan. Photo: Bob Horan

Bob Horan dusting off the Titan.

Bob Horan dusting off the Titan.

In all it's morning alpenglory.

In all it's morning alpenglory.

Summit Shot <br />Courtesy of Jesse Zacher

Summit Shot
Courtesy of Jesse Zacher


The Titan

The Titan

The Titan

The Titan

The Titan in winter

The Titan in winter

Sunset on The Titan from Fantasia (The Oracle)

Sunset on The Titan from Fantasia (The Oracle)


Comments on The Titan Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2004

The Titan is featured in the latest Alpinist Magazine (#8). Blurbs by first ascent parties, lots of cool route photos. Almost makes me want to climb the thing again.

By Pat Erley
From: Gunnison, CO
Oct 18, 2010

To whoever left the coors light on the summit: I drank it. Thank you, kind sir.

By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Apr 21, 2013

Time to update the intro!

Stevie did the FFA of Sundevil, 5.13 X, in 2002. Ben Bransby and Pete Robins freed Finger of Fate, March 2005. Finger of Fate free, 5.12, has also been repeated by Jason Haas (April 2011) and Will Stanhope (April 2013).

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 22, 2013

Want to rewrite the Titan page Crusher? You'd d it much better justice than i did.