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The Titan

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Finger of Fate 
Gimp Warfare T 
jade gate T 
Lone Wolf (VI- A6) T 
Sundevil Chimney 
World's End 
Unsorted Routes:

The Titan Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.71745, -109.29955 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,865
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jun 20, 2002
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Titan is the largest of the Fisher Towers, and the largest free standing tower in the United States. The Titan was also the first tower in the Fishers to be cimbed. Layton Kor's ascent of the Finger of Fate was the subject of an article in National Geographic, and the climb is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Harvey Carter, not to be outdone, added the incredible plumb line Sundevil Chimney, and later harder routes were added by Jim Beyer, Walt Shipley, and Duane Raleigh among others. Stevie Haston made an impressive attempt to free the Finger of Fate, but still had to resort to a few moves of aid - so the Titan is still awaiting a FFA.

Update - Stevie Haston has apparently freed the Sundevil Chimney at 5.13 This is pretty mind blowing - if the Titan can be freed probably any tower can.

Getting There 

Walk along the trail until at the base of the Titan. Sundevil Chimney is the first route reached. To reach the Finger of Fate, keep traversing around the base until it is possible to scramble up on ledges.

Climbing Season

For the Fisher Towers area.

Weather station 5.7 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Titan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Titan:
Finger of Fate   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2     Aid, Grade V   
Sundevil Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3     Aid, Grade VI   
World's End   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X     Aid, Grade VI   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Titan

Featured Route For The Titan
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd Gordon on The Sundevil Chimney.  Photo  Todd ...

Sundevil Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Titan
This was my first real nailing route, and is still one of the best routes I've ever done. It is awesome! This route climbs the obvious fluted chimney system on the south face of the tower. We climbed it in two days, on the first day we fixed to the top of pitch 2 and finished the rest of the pitches the following day. We ran out of water, it was over 100 degrees. All we had were pop tarts, and I will never eat pop tarts again as long as I live.P1- Climb the blocky crack systems up to the ro...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Titan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dylan and I heading to the top. Photo cred: Will C...
Dylan and I heading to the top. Photo cred: Will C...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Titan
The Titan
Rock Climbing Photo: The Titan!!!
The Titan!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is the doctored photoshop version!  I like it...
Here is the doctored photoshop version! I like it...
Rock Climbing Photo: In all it's morning alpenglory.
In all it's morning alpenglory.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scenic views off the Titan. Photo: Bob Horan
Scenic views off the Titan. Photo: Bob Horan
Rock Climbing Photo: Wow
Wow
Rock Climbing Photo:
BETA PHOTO
Rock Climbing Photo: Titan
Titan
Rock Climbing Photo: The Titan
The Titan
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset on The Titan from Fantasia (The Oracle)
Sunset on The Titan from Fantasia (The Oracle)
Rock Climbing Photo: Titan
Titan
Rock Climbing Photo: The Titan
BETA PHOTO: The Titan
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise
Sunrise
Rock Climbing Photo: The Titan from the Mystery Towers
BETA PHOTO: The Titan from the Mystery Towers
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning sun
Morning sun
Rock Climbing Photo: silhouette of the titan in all its glory...
silhouette of the titan in all its glory...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Titan in winter
The Titan in winter
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan dusting off the Titan.
Bob Horan dusting off the Titan.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset on the Titan
Sunset on the Titan
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a tower.
This is a tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic shot...
Panoramic shot...

Comments on The Titan Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2004
The Titan is featured in the latest Alpinist Magazine (#8). Blurbs by first ascent parties, lots of cool route photos. Almost makes me want to climb the thing again.
By coloradotomontana
Oct 18, 2010
To whoever left the coors light on the summit: I drank it. Thank you, kind sir.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Apr 21, 2013
Time to update the intro!

Stevie did the FFA of Sundevil, 5.13 X, in 2002. Ben Bransby and Pete Robins freed Finger of Fate, March 2005. Finger of Fate free, 5.12, has also been repeated by Jason Haas (April 2011) and Will Stanhope (April 2013).
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 22, 2013
Want to rewrite the Titan page Crusher? You'd d it much better justice than i did.
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
May 14, 2014
To the person who left two chunks of wet carpet at the base of the titan out in the pines. Pick up your crap. If you drop gear from something, take the time to try and recover it. I hiked your shitty carpet/belay seat out and threw it out.

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