|Type:||Trad, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Matt Clifton, Evan Cabodi, Stewart Matthiesen|
|Submitted By:||Matt Clifton on Aug 27, 2010|
|Comments on The Scoop||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
|Great climb, and awesome job by the FA folks to link natural features on the last two pitches. With good use of small gear, things are exciting but not dangerous. The 'Scoop' pitch doesn't have one particular crux, but features little in the way of rests and speed is your friend.|
From: Everett WA
Aug 26, 2013
|So so good this is what it is all about. Easy to locate the base. Pitches 1-3 are easy to locate with only a few moves of .10. The Scoop pitch is CLASSIC. Straightforward climbing with good rests and pods for both hands and feet. Delivers a good pump for .11. Pitch five is little spicy with solid pro, HB offsets were nice to have. The final pitch had it all, good rests, solid pro, knobs, the icing on the cake. The scramble to the top is always fun as well.|
By James Ellis
From: Seattle, Washington
Jun 8, 2015
I attempted to climb the Scoop on Saturday June 6 but discovered that the first half of the crux corner (not the slabby corner below it) was soaking wet and covered in slime. We bailed right onto the Nectar which was definitely a worthwhile alternative and deserves a bit more beta. At the top of the first pitch of the Nectar there are three alternatives.
a. Below an obvious offwidth section step left along small ledges to join the top of the crux pitch of the Scoop.
b. Climb straight up a few unprotected offwidth moves (gear below) until the crack narrows to hands/fists. Follow this to a small ledge. Belay here and then do a half pitch to climb over the block to the left to the base of an obvious hand crack.
c. Step right below the unprotected offwidth and climb the interesting chimney/v-slot/double offwidth with good medium sized pro. Follow this feature to the same ledge as (b). We took this option and the upper chimney felt like low 5.10, although it was dripping at the time.
The next pitch follows a mix of crack and face climbing past fun knobs. We belayed at a big horn. Felt roughly 5.9. Easy pitches up to 5.7 lead from here to the summit.
By Ben Gilkison
Jul 2, 2015
Climbed the Scoop 2 days ago. Mostly dry now with a little manageable moisture. For people closer to 5', the crux of pitch 5 probably comes lower down with some spice reaching up and left to the crack on the slab. 10+.
This route was awesome!