Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Colchuck Balanced Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 
Colchuck Balanced Rock Col (East Lake Side Approch) T 
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 
Leche La Vaca T 
Let it Burn T,S 
Milk n' Honey T 
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 
Scarface T 
Scoop, The T 
Tempest, The T 
West Face T 

The Scoop 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Matt Clifton, Evan Cabodi, Stewart Matthiesen
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 2,628
Submitted By: Matt Clifton on Aug 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Evan on pitch 4

Description 



Pitch 1 (5.9): a bouldery move off the ground leads to easier terrain, belay below a small rotting tree. (~100 ft.)

Pitch 2 (5.10a): move into a grove where tough moves take you out and right where the climbing eases. (~100 ft.)

Pitch 3 (5.10a): fun climbing moves up into a dihedral and the crux of the pitch. A short slab section leads to "Launch Ledge". Move the belay to the left about 30 feet before starting pitch 4.(~100 ft.)

Pitch 4 (5.11c): "The Scoop" pitch begins with a nice crack leading into a corner. Take a good rest, and launch up the dihedral. Sustained finger and hand jams with good gear take you up and to the left, finishing up with a 5.10 hand crack to a nice belay ledge. (~195 ft.)

note: it is now possible to skip the classic crux "Scoop" pitch by climbing a hand crack to the right (the Nectar 5.10+)

Pitch 5 (5.10b): move down and left on a small ledge that takes you into a slab dihedral. Small cams and nuts are useful here to move up and into a nice dihedral crack (wet in early season). Move out and left of the roof to another nice belay ledge. (~100 ft.)

Pitch 6 (5.10a): Climb up the right side and find the easiest way to move back out left to the rock tooth on the left. A nice 5.9 dihedral above take you to a small roof and the final ledge (tree belay). (~100 ft.)

Pitches 7-10 (easy fifth): find the path of least resistance up and left to the summit and the balanced rock.

Location 

Located right of the Tempest, left of Rikki Tikki Tavi

Protection 

Double rack to 3", extra small cams and nuts helpful.

No fixed gear, pins, or bolts on the route.

Natural anchors (trees and horns) allow you to rappel the route.


Photos of The Scoop Slideshow Add Photo
Evan finding more finger jams on pitch 4
Evan finding more finger jams on pitch 4
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Stewart leading up pitch 5
Stewart leading up pitch 5
Simul-climbing to the top
Simul-climbing to the top
Evan leads into the start of the Scoop pitch
Evan leads into the start of the Scoop pitch
Evan on pitch 4
Evan on pitch 4
Looking down from the top of pitch 5
Looking down from the top of pitch 5
Topo map
BETA PHOTO: Topo map
Stewart belays Evan up pitch 2
Stewart belays Evan up pitch 2
Ledge traverse to start pitch 5
Ledge traverse to start pitch 5
Matt leading up pitch 3
Matt leading up pitch 3
Evan leading pitch 4
Evan leading pitch 4
Looking up at the awesome "Scoop" pitch
Looking up at the awesome "Scoop" pitch
Money pitch!!
Money pitch!!

Comments on The Scoop Add Comment
Show which comments
By blakeherrington
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Great climb, and awesome job by the FA folks to link natural features on the last two pitches. With good use of small gear, things are exciting but not dangerous. The 'Scoop' pitch doesn't have one particular crux, but features little in the way of rests and speed is your friend.
By michal
From: Everett WA
Aug 26, 2013

So so good this is what it is all about. Easy to locate the base. Pitches 1-3 are easy to locate with only a few moves of .10. The Scoop pitch is CLASSIC. Straightforward climbing with good rests and pods for both hands and feet. Delivers a good pump for .11. Pitch five is little spicy with solid pro, HB offsets were nice to have. The final pitch had it all, good rests, solid pro, knobs, the icing on the cake. The scramble to the top is always fun as well.