Type: Trad, Sport, 1200 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jens Holsten, Max Hasson
Page Views: 4,081 total · 59/month
Shared By: Thomas Ramier on May 24, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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single #1 and #2 camalot, a single purple TCU/Blue Alien, and doubles from green alien to #1 Camalot, plus many wires.


Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
A few thoughts: the rack beta posted here's a bit wonky. I think he's trying to say single #2 and 3 when he writes single #1 and 2. We brought a #3 and found it valuable. As far as the climbing, it's a stellar route. I'd read somewhere the word gymnastic used to describe the climbing. Tack committing on and you get the picture. It's killer.

Pitch 2 is incredible. Hands down best pitch on the route.
Pitch 3 is also really good. My partner stepped right a little early to a finger crack way right. I think this was off route, but had fun climbing. To do it right, stay mostly straight and work up and right near the top of the pitch.
Pitches 4 and 5 both felt really hard to me. Harder than the 12a. Come ready to fight. (IMO P5 could use 15 minutes with a wire brush. Definitely still some lichen and granite chiclets hanging on up there-mostly clean where it counts though) Aug 26, 2013
Hats off to Jens and Max for an awesome route! Steep and wild movement from the bottom to the top. The 5.11+ pitches are just as hard as the 12- pitch. Seems like a double rack from purple TCU to .75 and singles in the #1,#2 is a good rack + set of wires. Jul 6, 2014
For the extra credit verison, you can skip the final two easy pitches and move right after P5 (the overhanging hand traverse to the flake) and climb the crux pitch of the West Face and the final overhanging chimneys on that route.

It is also possible to move right after P4 (the first of the .11+ pitches) and climb some 5.11/5.11+ cracks on the right, up through a roof, to reach the belay stance under the crux of the West Face. (Accendo Luna variation) Jul 29, 2014
wow wow! What a line, thought provoking, committing and keeps you on your toes all the way through the end.

FYI the fixed pin on P2 is suspect, but there is a good green c3 right below it, and/or a red c3 out to the left a few feet above. Jun 8, 2015
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
Great route. As good as it gets. Agree with the above for the rack. Will add it's nice to have triples of #1 & #2 metolius, doubles up to green metolius. Could get away without wires.

Descent: There's a slung mushroom shaped chicken head on the south/southwest face. 30m rap. Then head over the rock outcropping to the south. Easy walk off. Jul 13, 2015