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Routes in Colchuck Balanced Rock

Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colchuck Balanced Rock Col (East Lake Side Approch) T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Leche La Vaca T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let it Burn T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Milk n' Honey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scarface T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scoop, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tempest, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b C0
West Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 9 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,274 total · 71/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.

I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.

P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some liebacking to reach the roof, then traverse straight left out this monster roof to a nice belay ledge, short pitch, (11a). P7 This crux pitch takles the elegant 5.9 corner to a much smaller roof than the previous one. Climb out the left side of this roof (usually a fixed nut)to a stance (12-). P8 Battle up past two consecutive bulges using wide crack technique (5.9). P9 Easy ground gets you to the walk off around the right side of the summit(balanced) block.

Descent: Go down sandy scree to a point where you can easily go back to the base of the climb.

Protection

Gear to 3.5 inches

Photos

rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.11+
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.11+
Amazing route! The ledge below the Enduro corner roof has two fixed nuts with a bunch of suspect 'tat equalizing them. Furthermore, there is an additional fixed nut above the fist-sized portion of the crack on the corner. Jul 25, 2016
MorganH
  5.11b/c
MorganH  
  5.11b/c
For normal sized humans, the "5.8" pitch is by far the crux. Mini-mountain crushers probably slither right up it. Jun 8, 2015
blakeherrington
  5.11
blakeherrington  
  5.11
Route gets sun only very late in the day. Hot days in mid summer are best. Long corner and roof traverse tend to seep in early season. Jul 17, 2013
What is the season for this? Temps too hot in mid summer?
thanks! Jul 1, 2013
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
Account of the 1st Winter Ascent here Jan 13, 2012
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
  5.11c
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
  5.11c
The fixed nut on the crux pitch is gone. Consensus seems to be about 11c for the crux. Aug 28, 2009