Avg: 3.8 from 68 votes
|Type:||Trad, 9 pitches|
|FA:||Tom Boley, Jack Lewis (1980)|
|Page Views:||14,560 total · 78/month|
|Shared By:||Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart. It would be wise to rope up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.
P1 (5.10+) - Fun but short finger crack.
P2 (5.7) - Easy chimney.
P3 (5.9) - Long corner to a nice belay.
P4 - Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral.
P5 (5.11a) - This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet.
P6 (5.11a) - Start out with some liebacking to reach the roof, then traverse straight left out this monster roof to a nice belay ledge, short pitch.
P7 (5.12-) - This crux pitch tackles the elegant 5.9 corner to a much smaller roof than the previous one. Climb out the left side of this roof (usually a fixed nut) to a stance.
P8 (5.9) - Battle up past two consecutive bulges using wide crack technique.
P9 - Easy ground gets you to the walk off around the right side of the summit (balanced) block.
Descent: Go down sandy scree to a point where you can easily go back to the base of the climb.