Type: Trad, 9 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,585 total · 73/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

40 Opinions

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This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.

I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.

P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some liebacking to reach the roof, then traverse straight left out this monster roof to a nice belay ledge, short pitch, (11a). P7 This crux pitch takles the elegant 5.9 corner to a much smaller roof than the previous one. Climb out the left side of this roof (usually a fixed nut)to a stance (12-). P8 Battle up past two consecutive bulges using wide crack technique (5.9). P9 Easy ground gets you to the walk off around the right side of the summit(balanced) block.

Descent: Go down sandy scree to a point where you can easily go back to the base of the climb.


Gear to 3.5 inches


Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
The fixed nut on the crux pitch is gone. Consensus seems to be about 11c for the crux. Aug 28, 2009
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
Isaac T.   Oceanside, CA
Account of the 1st Winter Ascent here Jan 13, 2012
What is the season for this? Temps too hot in mid summer?
thanks! Jul 1, 2013
Route gets sun only very late in the day. Hot days in mid summer are best. Long corner and roof traverse tend to seep in early season. Jul 17, 2013
For normal sized humans, the "5.8" pitch is by far the crux. Mini-mountain crushers probably slither right up it. Jun 8, 2015
Seattle, WA
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
Amazing route! The ledge below the Enduro corner roof has two fixed nuts with a bunch of suspect 'tat equalizing them. Furthermore, there is an additional fixed nut above the fist-sized portion of the crack on the corner. Jul 25, 2016
Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
Worth noting that about 20 feet into P2 (as described here), you step right on top a block into a right-facing corner that leads into P3.

If you don't step right and instead go straight up into a left-facing slightly dirty corner, you'll be climbing what Beckey calls the 1984 variation or something. 5.8 flared corner to "5.9+" squeeze or layback. Dec 20, 2018