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Routes in Colchuck Balanced Rock

Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colchuck Balanced Rock Col (East Lake Side Approch) T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Leche La Vaca T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let it Burn T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Milk n' Honey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scarface T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scoop, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tempest, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b C0
West Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 1200 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Seth Angivine, John Berry, Evelyn Cheng, Jared Otto, Megan Polk, Thomas Ramier, Craig Rankin, Tim Stedman, Abe Traven
Page Views: 2,924 total · 47/month
Shared By: Thomas Ramier on May 23, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

A stand out route in the perfect alpine setting with excellent climbing on all pitches from 5.9 to 5.11 and one pitch of 5.12.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route starts a few hundred feet down the gulley to the right of the start of the West Face route.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack with extra #1 and #2 Camalots for p2
Nothing bigger then a #3 Camalot is needed.
(See also topo for The Tempest Wall)


braddean Lignoski
braddean Lignoski   Seattle
One of the most unique routes I've ever been on. Profoundly exposed and intimidating. Nice work, Tom!

If you're working this route, it is easiest to bring two ropes:
fix one at the anchor for rapping back to the belay (your belayer can throw you a rope to pull you in).

To minimize groveling and maximize fun (you did hike all your crap up here for fun, right?), just untie and pull the rope (leaving the gear in the roof) when you get back to the belay. Now you can lead again without having to aid climb a massive roof to clean the gear. In other words, cleaning this route is a massive pain. Consider bribing your partner if it looks like you might be expected to do it. Sep 4, 2017

More About Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version)