Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||5,021 total · 44/month|
|Shared By:||blakeherrington on Oct 6, 2008|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
DescriptionP1) Follow cracks and corner past a small tree, up right to a ledge to a belay below the obvious roof. 5.10d
P2) Up the finger crack to the roof, then out the crack, turn the lip, and 12 more feet up to the belay ledge. Multiple #2 cams required. Belay takes finger-thin hand gear. C1 or 5.12d
P3) Move right on obvious flakes and knobs, then up the wonderful dihedral. Can rope stretch all the way to the big treed ledge. 5.9+
P4) Follow easier ground on runout chickenheads to the base of the treed ledge, just left of a R-facing corner/pillar. 5.7
P5) Up the corner to the top of the pillar, then move right, up and into the cave/alcove. 5.10
P6 and 7) Splitter cracks up the headwall 5.11a. Up the flaring slot, then pull into the splitter .75" L-facing corner. Try to find some gear, clip the piton, and commit to delicate stemming and thin moves up and right to the good ledge. Belays (semi-hanging) can be made in several spots, including just below the OW/Flare.
P8) Follow a short chimney back and left to an even better ledge. 5.8
P9+) Simulclimb blocky ground up and left to the summit. Do the Boulder problem.
LocationBegin at the center of the face, below the middle of the long bulge/roof section. This start is a couple hundred feet right, and lower than the start on the 'West Face'.
ProtectionPitch 2 can easily be aided with a couple #2 camalots on 2' slings attached to your harness. The rest of the route is 5.9 to 5.11-
Rack: Doubles of cams from Blue Alien to #3 Camalot, with one #4 camalot and four #2 camalots. A selection of small nuts, and offset aliens is nice, but not required. Pins aren't needed.