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Routes in Colchuck Balanced Rock

Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colchuck Balanced Rock Col (East Lake Side Approch) T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Leche La Vaca T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let it Burn T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Milk n' Honey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scarface T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scoop, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tempest, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b C0
West Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 7,790 ft
GPS: 47.492, -120.818 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 25,111 total, 176/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

This rock has some of the best alpine rock I have ever climbed. But its still alpine, so there is always loose stuff.

Getting There

From the Colchuck Lake, head up Aasgard pass until you are about 400 feet above the lake. Head left through dense bushes to the obvious gully leading up to Colchuck Balanced Rock.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Colchuck Balanced Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leche La Vaca
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Scoop
Trad 10 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face
Trad 9 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let it Burn
Trad, Sport 8 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version)
Trad 5 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b C0
The Tempest
Trad, Aid 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Leche La Vaca 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
The Scoop 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 10 pitches
West Face 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 9 pitches
Let it Burn 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport 8 pitches
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Fre… 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 5 pitches
The Tempest 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b C0 Trad, Aid 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Colchuck Balanced Rock »

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Julian Barnett
Seattle, WA
Julian Barnett   Seattle, WA
Thanks for the feedback guys. Planning on doing this in the next couple weeks! Jul 18, 2017
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Carrying bivy gear anywhere near the start of the route would be grueling. Set up a base camp somewhere along the Mountaineer's Creek road. Start in the dark, it's 4 miles on a hiking trail to the lake. Take the east side approach. As of July 4 on a big snow year there was water running (not much) in the gully you cross 30 or 40 minutes above the lake. There was a short section of steep snow we had to cross to access the ramp at the base of the wall, chopping steps with a rock was necessary. Jul 13, 2017
Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
Julian, Overnight camping is not allowed without a permit, and I've been told rangers DO patrol the area. Jul 10, 2017
Julian Barnett
Seattle, WA
Julian Barnett   Seattle, WA
Can you legally (without a permit) camp at the base of the climb or nearby? Or would you have to do this car 2 car in a grueling long day? Jul 10, 2017
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
Hey Jonah i think your comments may be misguiding people. The long corner goes at 10+/11- and is only 110ft long. The crux above the roof traverse pitch is 11c (not 12a) and the trail is cleared and cairned for the most part. Aug 28, 2009
jonah  
This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.

But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.

Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though not necessary), 3 #2s and doubles below that. YOu gotta build anchors, so while this seems like a lot of gear, the pitches are long and the anchors eat up gear. Aug 7, 2006

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