|Type:||Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 110'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||chopperjohn on Sep 20, 2009|
|Comments on The Balcony||Add Comment|
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By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 22, 2012
Locate the cave/hole/balcony in the center and halfway up Middle Finger Wall.
Start under this feature on a small slab pillar that leads to the balcony. Climb cliff left out of the balcony and continue climbing up just left of the balcony to arrive on an obivious ledge with a bolted anchor.
One long pitch makes for some fun climbing but make sure to use extended runners. The rock quality is not inspiring but the climbing is physically easy.
By Russ Keane
Dec 9, 2013
LOVED THIS CLIMB!
Such an unexpected treat. If you are looking for some low-level trad, this is a pleasant but challenging two-pitch adventure that has some of the most unique architectural features I've ever seen, on pitch one. Simply gorgeous visually, getting up to and chilling in "the cave".
Then for pitch two, you have to swing around left out of the cave, which is pretty airy and exposed. The whole pitch is steep and very heady, albeit easy climbing with a million holds and feet. SOOO much fun for trad leading. I've climbed some exposed routes before (Gunks for sure), and this one ranks up there. It's intense! But not scary.
Great asthetics, challenging moves, on beautiful rock.