A small sport climbing area with easy access. Not a destination in & of itself, but some fun climbing nonetheless. Grades range from 5.7 to 5.11?.
The rock here is a bit polished from use; I guess that means it is pretty clean as well.
Getting There
From Spearfish and the start of 14A, go approximately 3 miles into the Canyon, look for a turnout / parking area on the right. The last time I was there the turnout was the 3rd one encountered on the drive.
There is an obvious trail on the N side of the parking area, follow that for a minute until you reach the rock.
This route is to the left of "Crucifixion" and "Custer's Last Stud," I believe, immediately upon entering Skeletal Remains. It competes with a tree branch about fifteen or twenty feet up the route for space. "Buster Douglas" follows some crimps to a crack up to a good pocket, then to a good ledge then a mantle up to the anchors. A very fun climb....[more]
13+? The grades range from 5.6 (Sewn Up) to 5.12c (Custer's Last Stud). If you want to experience a nice Pete deLannoy sandbag, get on Tongueless Wonder, 11a. Trivia question: Does anybody know how this route got its name?
I"ve always wondered were that name came from. Tonguless is one of the finest routs in the canyon and one of the best 5.11's I've ever done. It's also probably the hardest .11a I've ever been on.
Pete used to get all heated when I would suggest that Tongueless was hard for 11a... "you don't know dude. Go climb some runout 5.11s in the Needles, then come talk to me." I think it's more like 11c. It's brilliant though. Fun to put your unsuspecting friends on.
Skeletal Remains
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