Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Rocks State Park
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Area...
Biceps Wall 
Breakaway Wall 
King and Queen Seat 
Pinnacle 

Rocks State Park 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 39.6359, -76.4121 Map
Page Views: 25,861. Good page? (2 likes)   
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brad.mering on Oct 22, 2007

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
 Printer View

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


BETA PHOTO: Brakeaway Wall; the main wall at RSP. Ro...

Description 

Rocks State Park is about 40 minutes north of Baltimore, and has some of the best trad routes in Maryland. There are three main climbing areas. The main outcropping is called the King and Queen Seat, and hosts the majority of the routes. A small, 40ft pillar juts out from the end of the King and Queen Seat, to form the Strawberry Jam Pillar. Finally, off in the woods to the east is the Smoke and Ash Crag, hosting two short routes. Most of the worthwhile climbs are in the first two areas.

There are about 25 routes and a couple of variations. A couple of them are fairly high quality for the area, and two or three are exceptional by Maryland standards. The grades range from 5.4 to 5.12 and most of the routes can be toproped, either by slinging trees and blocks, or with a bit of gear.

The rock is fairly hard and eats up stopper placements. Cam placements can be a bit tricky due to the flaring rock. The main wall, with the highest concentration of high quality routes gets early sun.

There are few objective hazards in Rocks. There are copperhead snakes in the area, and occasionally popular climbs like Breakaway(5.9) and Vertical play host to wasp nests.

There is some old fixed gear, but all new fixed gear is banned, except by permission of the park ranger. The only access issue is that the park closes at sunset, and you will be fined if you are caught in the park after dark.


Getting There 

Drive north on I-95 to Route 24. Take 24 north about 10 miles. The road will go from a major highway to a small two lane country road. 24 becomes Rocks Rd. About a mile after you pass Cherry Hill Rd. You'll see a couple of parking lots on your left. If you hit a fork in the road with a bridge on the right (St. Clair's Bridge Rd.) you've gone to far. Park a the second lot and hike up the trail until you see the crag.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rocks State Park:
Beginner Flake   5.5 PG13     Trad, TR, 50 feet   Biceps Wall
The Crux   5.5     Trad, TR, 55 feet   Biceps Wall
Vertical   5.6     Trad, TR, 70 feet   Breakaway Wall
First Line   5.6 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pinnacle
Bone Jacker   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Breakaway Wall
Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge   5.7+ PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Breakaway Wall
Strawberry Jam   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pinnacle
Breakaway Right   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Breakaway Wall
Breakaway left   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Breakaway Wall
Strawberry Jam Direct   5.10a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pinnacle
Piney   5.10b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Breakaway Wall
Mike's Finger Buckets   5.10b R     Trad   Breakaway Wall
Superbulge   5.11+ X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Breakaway Wall
Browse More Classics in Rocks State Park

Featured Route For Rocks State Park
Renee climbing Strawberry Jam in mid April.

Strawberry Jam 5.8+  MD : Rocks State Park : Pinnacle
Follow the left leaning crack on the west side of the pillar....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD


Photos of Rocks State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Tanya climbs Vertical (5.6) at Breakaway Wall, Rocks State Park.

Tanya climbs Vertical (5.6) at Breakaway Wall, Roc...

At the lower part of breakaway.  nice corner features

BETA PHOTO: At the lower part of breakaway. nice corner featu...