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Routes in Biceps Wall

Beginner Flake T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Biceptennial TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chardonnay T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Crux, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exhibition TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fever Dream TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Shared By: Frank T on Aug 6, 2008
Admins: Frances Fierst

Description

This area is a good place to stop if the other areas are over run with climbers. "The Crux" (5.5) can offer the new leader a good bit of fun (though it can be awkward in places), with good pro placements.

Anchors are generally off the boulders behind the King & Queen's Seat block. I have also seen people use gear in the top flake as well.
Some of the climbs here can be wet after a good rain.

Getting There

This is the First area you come to (on your right) if hiking in from the upper parking lot. Located behind and below the King & Queen's Seat, on the west side of the south-facing wall.

Access to the base of the climbs descends down the steep erosion trail to the right of the rocks, cutting back to the cliff face at your best opportunity.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Biceps Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Beginner Flake
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Crux
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginner Flake 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad, TR
The Crux 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
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Photos

Frank T  
The information I provided for this area was taken from the book "Climb Maryland" by Mark "Indy" Kochte with his blessing. Aug 6, 2008

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