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Routes in Biceps Wall

Beginner Flake T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Biceptennial TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chardonnay T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Crux, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exhibition TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fever Dream TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 595 total · 5/month
Shared By: Frank T on Aug 6, 2008
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route is often the rappel spot for those who come here just to rappel (nice long drop for it-just make sure your rope(s) touch ground!)

Pitch 1: 58 ft. Follow the crack through the chimney 'notch' (crux) to a ledge. Step right a move or two, then follow up and left on easier ground to a ledge with a sizeable tree (beware the Greenbriar!) You know you're close when you reach the grassy ledges. Pitch 1 is often wet because it is a natural drain for water in the rock.

Pitch 2: 52 ft. Climb straight up the face (not recommended) (or climb VI or V2) above to the top of the BIG MOMMA BOULDER.

V1: Chardonnay Variation Finish (5.9) Head right and a little up to a small roof (the "cave"). Pull to the right around this and follow the offwidth crack above to the top.

V2: Chardonnay Escape (5.5) Traverse straight right to a cave. Continue past this opening around the comer and then up to the top.

This route doesn't see a lot of traffic, so the Greenbriar bushes have been growing thick on some of the ledges. If you try this climb, PLEASE be careful and take care.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start on the ground, below and a little uphill from the BREAKAWAY WALL, near a large tree, at a right-facing comer/crack/chimney-like "notch."

Protection [Suggest Change]

Protection is sparse to nonexistent at best. There is a chickenhead you can sling about 12 feet or so up, but a fall before, and most of the way after, will have you hitting the deck.


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