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Routes in Biceps Wall

Beginner Flake T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Biceptennial TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chardonnay T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Crux, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exhibition TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fever Dream TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,565 total · 12/month
Shared By: Frank T on Aug 6, 2008
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route

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Also known as Beginner Corner, climb up the sloping ledges following a thin crack past the small, blocky right-facing comer to easier ground above. Not always the cleanest or most graceful route to play on. You may find it to be a bit wet after a good rain too.

This is a good climb for the new trad climber, with one issue, a fall on the first half could cause you to hit/land on the ledges.

Watched a two person team swap leads the whole way up this recently. they turned this from a simple single pitch to a whopping 4 pitches (they were working on building belay stations and swapping out leads). Thought this was a good idea and this is the climb to try it on.


Starting 12 feet right of Beginner Flake.


Good Pro - Small to Med. gear. I tend to use nuts & small cams (C3's) lower down and C4's up to a #3 higher up. It is possible to place a #4 too. That is if you are dieing to use it and feel like lugging it up.
It's possible to sew this route up if you feel like it.


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Lots of fun moves on great holds. One or two long strenuous reaches that make it way harder than 5.5 even though the holds are positive.

If this were the second pitch of some 5.7 route in the Gunks, it would be famous. May 22, 2015
S2k 4life
S2k 4life   Baltimore
Yea bro but if this climb was in the gunks would maybe be rated 5.5 prolly 5.4 Sep 24, 2017

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