Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,573 total · 29/month
Shared By: S Perry on Aug 7, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Frances Fierst, C S

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a fantastic crack climb, even though it is fairly short. Jam the overhanging crack making use of some face features when possible. Once you reach the roof, plug a high piece and find the crucial holds/jams to pull over the lip.

This is a 5.11a in Mark "Indy" Kochte's "Climb Maryland!" guide, but only a 5.10d in the Horst Falcon Guide.

Location Suggest change

Obvious overhanging hand crack splitting the east side of the boulder.

Protection Suggest change

Eats hand and and fist sized gear (#3 & #4 C4 or large hexes). Doubles are helpful, but you can lead it with just a #4 and a #3.

You can TR this by (1) having the belayer stand under the bolts (which are climber's right, sky facing, and easily accessible from the top) and by draping the climber's end over the central prominence. Not ideal, but it works fine and friction won't hinder taking in slack. Mind how the rope lies over the rock—most edges are rounded. Put a double length sling on each bolt, add a quad, and you're golden to hit a couple lines. 

You can also easily (2) set up a natural anchor on a boulder on the top.