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Routes in Smoke 'n' Ash Boulder

Ash Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ashes to Ashes T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blowin' Smoke T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoke 'n' Ash T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 494 total, 30/month
Shared By: Spencer Perry on Aug 7, 2016
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Description

This is a fantastic crack climb, even though it is fairly short. Jam the overhanging crack making use of some face features when possible. Once you reach the roof, plug a high piece and find the crucial holds/jams to pull over the lip.

This is a 5.11a in Mark "Indy" Kochte's "Climb Maryland!" guide, but only a 5.10d in the Horst Falcon Guide.

Location

Obvious overhanging hand crack splitting the east side of the boulder.

Protection

Eats hand and and fist sized gear (#3 & #4 C4 or large hexes). Doubles are helpful unless you are comfortable backcleaning/bumping gear. For the roof a large nut, small hex, or medium cam would probably work.

You can easily set up a natural anchor on a boulder on the top. There are some bolts up and to the right of the top out, but I do not think they would work well for a top rope setup.

Photos

GS Gibbons  
 
Bushwhacking approach to a super physical, short, fun climb. Jun 13, 2017