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Routes in Breakaway Wall

Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bone Jacker T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakaway Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakaway left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mike's Finger Buckets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Piney T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superbulge T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Vertical T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,577 total, 40/month
Shared By: Frank T on Aug 6, 2008
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Description

Super-positive holds all up and down this classic route make it an extremely popular climb. a good place to play for the new leader and the old alike.

Follow the prominent crack/flake system that starts in the center of the wall, about 15 feet beneath a small overhang. Pull through it and follow the parallel left-leaning cracks up to the next bulge. Work your way over or around the bulge near the top to the large platform.

There are many variations possible. Some follow the parallel cracks exactly, some work the face on either side. One fun variation is to traverse left until above Mike's Finger Buckets before you pass by the first overhang and then climb the featured green face to the top. The climbing doesn't get any harder than 5.6 or 5.7, whatever you opt to play on.

Vertical Extension (5.4* PG) An excellent optional finish is to continue climbing up the right-facing wall/arete to the Slimey Ledge. This gives you another 15 feet or so additional climbing.

Location

Climb any where under the overhang. Best if you follow the crack/flake system.

Protection

Good Pro
A std. rack will work. 2 and 4 foot runners are good to have. A #1 or #2 C4 fits really well under the overhang.
Auden Alsop
Baltimore, MD
Auden Alsop   Baltimore, MD
Was here today, just a warning, one of the underclings about 20ft up has a wasp in residence, thank god i was on top rope and could just fall away from the route! Jul 3, 2017
La Vidorra  
 
Super fun climb with excellent holds and rests! Oct 27, 2015