Avg: 3 from 45 votes
Routes in Breakaway Wall
|Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Bone Jacker T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Breakaway Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Breakaway left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Mike's Finger Buckets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Piney T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Superbulge T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X|
|Vertical T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||4,556 total, 40/month|
|Shared By:||Frank T on Aug 6, 2008|
DescriptionSuper-positive holds all up and down this classic route make it an extremely popular climb. a good place to play for the new leader and the old alike.
Follow the prominent crack/flake system that starts in the center of the wall, about 15 feet beneath a small overhang. Pull through it and follow the parallel left-leaning cracks up to the next bulge. Work your way over or around the bulge near the top to the large platform.
There are many variations possible. Some follow the parallel cracks exactly, some work the face on either side. One fun variation is to traverse left until above Mike's Finger Buckets before you pass by the first overhang and then climb the featured green face to the top. The climbing doesn't get any harder than 5.6 or 5.7, whatever you opt to play on.
Vertical Extension (5.4* PG) An excellent optional finish is to continue climbing up the right-facing wall/arete to the Slimey Ledge. This gives you another 15 feet or so additional climbing.