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Routes in Breakaway Wall

Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bone Jacker T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakaway Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakaway left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mike's Finger Buckets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Piney T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superbulge T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Vertical T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Description

This is the "main wall" of Rocks State Park.

The BREAKAWAY WALL hosts the longest top-rope routes, pushing 80+ feet in length. Be sure both ends of your rope reach the ground before trying these climbs!Although Indys guide recommends a 50m rope minimum, I would say 60m to be safe.

You'll need gear for most anchors here (there are a few natural anchors but will have to be used with your gear placements) and the anchors are usually set from either the EPITAPH WALL (for those climbs left of Vertical) or the platform 15 feet lower down (for Vertical and Piney).

Getting There

Accessible only by an exposed 4th class/5.l downclimb scramble down past "The Pinnacle Area" (aka Strawberry Jam Pillar). Please be very careful when going down/up this area (especially when it's wet). A fall could spell BAD NEWS (Death perhaps). Rope up if you have to.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Breakaway Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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kenr  
I visited and scrambled around exploring one day in May 2015. What I found was ...

In theory the wide ledge at the bottom of the Breakaway wall could be reached by scrambling up west from the route 24 road. But I found this was steep slabby dirty -- not something I'd ever do hauling gear or with ground even slightly wet. Also there's no legal parking along the road by there. Although that approach was mentioned in an old guidebook, it did not look like hardly anybody does that any more (now that there's a nice maintained trail on the N side of the rocks).

From the Kings Queens Seat, hiking down around the SW side of the rocks leads to a gully below the Breakaway ledge. Which then requires scrambling up a steep slabby dirty gully to actually reach the ledge -- not something I'd ever do hauling gear or with ground even slightly wet.

So I guess that's why most people get to the base of Breakaway by first going to Kings Queens seat, then scrambling E down the N side of the rocks, crossing the ridge a bit W of the Pinnacle and scrambling SE down the rather steep rocky gully (not something I'd try when wet). Or rappelling down in from the Epitaph Ledge. May 24, 2015
Frank T  
Some of the information I provided for this area was taken from the book "Climb Maryland" by Mark "Indy" Kochte with his blessing. Aug 6, 2008

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