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Routes in Breakaway Wall

Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bone Jacker T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakaway Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakaway left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mike's Finger Buckets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Piney T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superbulge T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Vertical T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,087 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ben Annibali on Feb 25, 2010 with updates
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Description

This is a fun climb with a big roof at the end. Up until the roof, the route is fairly easy - almost like Vertical. The roof has a crack that runs out the middle of it. Pulling over the roof is the crux of the climb. There aren't many holds above the roof. The climb finishes on a ledge with a pine tree on it. This is the same ledge that Vertical finishes on. From there you can class 4 scramble down to Strawberry Jam Pillar or walk over to Epitaph Wall.

Location

This climb is all the way the the right end of Breakaway Wall. The climb is almost on the arete. To the right will be the class 4 scramble to get up to Strawberry Jam Pillar.

Protection

Not the best gear for the roof but you can get a smaller c4 in the crack in the roof. Bring extra webbing/rope to set up the anchor in the crack at the back of the ledge (about 15-20 feet back) if you want to back up the tree.

Photos

S2k4 Life
beaver creek, CO
S2k4 Life   beaver creek, CO
Yea man good on ya to lead this... the beginning is easy it's just a 10b one move wonder pulling over the roof, super fun, but I would just set a tr up off the ledge with the pine tree, you get good gear and hexes 5ft low left of tree Sep 24, 2017
Torren
Newark, DE
Torren   Newark, DE
This is a pretty committing lead since the ~15-20 ft slab below the roof is unprotected and the gear at the roof is just OK. I didn't really trust the small gear at the roof so it definitely sketched me out. Luckily there is a good stance under the roof so you have time to collect yourself before the committing moves. Nov 7, 2016