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Routes in Smoke 'n' Ash Boulder

Ash Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ashes to Ashes T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blowin' Smoke T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoke 'n' Ash T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Description

This area consists of some rock piles and boulders a couple hundred yards south of the main climbing areas at Rocks. Tucked away in the woods about one hundred yards west of the road, this area remains secluded from the normal crowds at the Breakaway Wall and Pinnacle areas.

All of the routes here are about 30ft. or so. The rock seems pretty solid on the leadable climbs; but due to the lack of traffic, many of the cracks are very dirty. There are also two bolts (not sure how old or how solid) on top of the north face of the Smoke 'n' Ash boulder that I imagine you can use for top rope anchors. That said, there are pretty large boulders on the tops of these climbs, so a natural anchor would be pretty easy to set up as well.

In the summer months the rocks are shaded by the trees, but the trail and area are fairly overgrown with thorn bushes.

Getting There

From the "rapids" parking lot you walk south down the road for a couple hundred yards. You will first come up on a little opening with a small trail winding up the hill. This is the trail up to the main areas (Breakaway and Pinnacle). Instead of taking this trail, continue another hundred yards or so until you spot a cairn on top of the grassy slope to your right. If you hit the yellow turn sign, you have gone too far. Once you get up the slope continue into the woods for a hundred feet or so. At this point you should be able to see the main Smoke 'n' Ash boulder up the hill and to the left. (I imagine in the winter you can see this rock from the road). There are several routes on this rock and another couple easier routes further up the hill behind the top of this boulder. To access the higher up climbs, walk around the north(right) side of the main boulder.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Smoke 'n' Ash Boulder

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Ashes to Ashes
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Smoke 'n' Ash
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ashes to Ashes
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Smoke 'n' Ash
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
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