Prime Rib of Goat
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Prime Rib is an incredibly cool easy-moderate sport climb overlooking the Methow Valley. Solid rock, ample protection, easy access, and a wonderful location add up to a classic and fun romp up this massive wall.
Although there are 5.9 cruxes on this climb, they are all very short and very well-protected. Overall, the route is extremely generous in its bolting.
Pitch 1: Begin at a small fir tree. Head up easy 5th-class ledges to a large ledge with a bolted anchor next to a large fir. (5.4)
Pitch 2: Steep face to an anchor. (5.8)
Shift the belay to below a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch 3: Up the dihedral. You will pass a rappel anchor. Continue up to the anchor on the ledge with the large blocks. (5.7)
Pitch 4: Climb the face above through three steep cruxes. Juggy pockets just where you want them keep the grade moderate. End in the Notch. (5.9-)
Pitch 5: Climb the straight-forward face above. Belay at a tree. (5.7)
Shift the belay to the large fir by the wall. The top of the gully is here. It is my understanding that you can descend the gully from here. It might be an unpleasant "pinball" experience down the scree. Beware loose rock from above.
Pitch 6: Climb a nicely exposed face with a slight left-to-right traverse. (5.8)
Pitch 7: This pitch begins with a bouldery crux off the ledge. There are a couple more bouldery moves on this fun pitch. (5.9-)
Shift the belay again to below the juggy slab. There is a large fir tree here showing scars from the frequent rockfall at this spot. Beware, especially if there are parties above you here.
Pitch 8: Climb the fun juggy slab to a semi-hanging anchor. (5.8)
Pitch 9: This pitch follows a short, exposed traverse to the right. (5.4)
Pitch 10: Traverse back to the left. You will reach a 2-bolt anchor. It might be preferable to continue up to the beginning of the next pitch and belay off of the first bolt. If you opt to belay off of the 2-bolt anchor, be sure to shift your belay before starting Pitch 11. (Easy 5th-, 4th-, and 3rd class)
Pitch 11: The money pitch. Begin by ascending a short leaning pillar. Stem over to the main wall, and thrutch up a somewhat awkward set of features. Beyond, the awkwardness eases, but the difficulty remains consistent. (5.9)
Park at the swimming hole parking area, on Lost River Road, north of Mazama. The trailhead is 100 m north of the parking. Follow the trail up to the talus field. Cross the talus to gain the trail up and back to the left. The route begins at the foot of the buttress, just south of the cascading Goat Creek (on the south side of the next gully south of the creek, actually).
A more detailed description of the approach and the route itself can be found in Bryan Burdo's guidebook, or by asking at the Goat's Beard climbing shop in Mazama.
You can rappel the route with a single rope. Alternatively, you can park a car (or bike) shuttle on Goat Creek Road, and hike to the top and drive back down.
If opting for the car shuttle, drive up Goat Creek Road; turn left at the Y (hairpin). Follow the road up past 2 (?) cattle guards. At the second cattle guard, the road will begin descending. Park here. The trail should be on the left side of the road, just north of the barbed-wire fence.
To return to your vehicle from the top of Prime Rib, the key idea to keep in mind is that you are north of the barbed-wire fence, and there is a trail that runs all the way along the fence to the top of the wall.
From the top of Pitch 11, continue up 2nd- and 3rd-class ledges until you reach the forest. Continue uphill, aiming to stay on the ridge. If in doubt, go right (south). It is impossible to go too far right. Eventually you will find the fence. Follow it back to the road. Allow 30 minutes.
15 quickdraws. A single 60-m rope. Helmets. (Even though the climbing is on solid rock, there is an abundance of loose scree on ledges throughout the climb.)
Mar 19, 2013
A great first multi-pitch. The belay ledges are big, easy to communicate between leader and follower, and just great fun.
By Adrian Lazar
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Park the car close to the winding road sign. As you hike up the horrendous scree slope, you'll notice remnants of an old mine train track.
Communication is impossible if it's windy and Goat creek is in full flow, i.e.: spring time.
The pass is now open, and conditions on this route are good.
Aug 19, 2013
Not sure what pitches we did this on (5 or 6) but we used a couple intermediate anchors and turned this into 13 pitches on accident, not a big deal just costs you even more time. I suggest getting the topo from goats beard gear shop, it's slightly better than the one on here (that does not show pitch 9).
From: Tonasket, WA
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A fun route, but the grading is very soft - only the last pitch was as hard as 5.7 (no way a 5.9!, and in the Gunks it would probably only be a 5.6), the lower pitches were mostly easy 5th class with a few moves of up to 5.6. The rock quality is only so-so, with lots of loose rock (wear a helmet and be careful with rappels), but the exposure and views are very fine.
Sep 3, 2014
Did this as a party of three. Bad idea on a busy labor day weekend. It was still fun nonetheless.
We got seven pitches in. Some things to note that hasn't been said in the route description and comments:
- Pitch 1: Some people skipped it by heading left of the first bolt and working their way up a small chimney. We didn't do this so can't tell you how that goes.
- Pitch 2: There's rap anchors about 10-15 feet belay the actual belay anchors. If it is not hangers, then don't belay from there. Save yourself some time.
- Pitch 4: Use several alpine draws and extend them. You'll be going all over the place on this pitch. Once you're near the rap anchors (not the belay anchor), you'll feel like you're hauling a bus (over-exaggeration).
- Pitch 7: Had an OK boulder start, nothing to write home about. My favorite move on the route was in the middle where you had a right handed pinch. You match on the pinch and extend your right to an undercling. At this point, you'll then switch feet and backstep with your left and flag out with your right to a positive foot hold extending your left hand to a positive crimp. Great exposure while doing a sweet move.
Don't worry about grades and just go out and enjoy this really fun route.