|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008|
|Comments on Opinionated||Add Comment|
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May 5, 2008
|FA by Hans Schuler, 2000.|
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Sep 16, 2008
|It is my "opinion" the anchors should be moved a few more feet up to the ledge.|
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 9, 2009
|This route is funky climbing and clipping. The first two bolt placements can be hard to clip, as they are far away from the left side natural line, but the location makes sense since it is on the cleanest part of the rock. The move after the second bolt can be protected with a #2 C3. Whats up with the extra bolt just next to the anchors? The stance for the anchor clip sucks.|
By chris mcguigan
From: belmont, nc
Oct 20, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|At the start of the climb the open book to the right of the bolts is funky and feels to me like it deserves a 10, the line to the left of the bolts at the start I could see a 9 for the route.|
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Feb 12, 2013
|The runout between bolts 2 and 3 can be mitigated with a yellow C3 placement in the flaring horizontal at a good stance. A fall while making the move to clip the third bolt would place you in groundfall territory. This has been the site of more than one bone-breaking fall. I agree with Chris, climbing in the dihedral to the right of the first two bolts bumps this up into 5.10 territory. To keep it 5.9 climb the large flake to the left of the first two bolts.|
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Mar 10, 2013
|I got a .4 C4 to fit in the horizontal between bolts 2 & 3|
From: Charlotte, NC
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
this climb is fairly sustained, no doubt. Get your endurance on!
There are two unique ways to climb the initial 20' 1). up the chalked up leaning pillar. ~5.8 territory with very cool holds (as a reference, this line is left of initial two bolts); 2). climb the dihedral to the right of the initial two bolts which feels a lot closer to 10a.
Edit: 12/08/2014 (beta spoiling warning!)
From bolt #2 to #3 is protectable. We used a pink tricam in the small horizontal that is visible from the ground between #2 and #3 bolt. Solid placement but not immediately obvious. This same seam will also take a red and brown tricam (we have placed all of them in different sections of that seam). There are plenty of additional placements throughout the climb --- keep in mind this line was intended as a mixed bolt/gear line.
There are a lot of solid 5.9 moves on this climb assuming that you stay on the arete. Pretty relentless once it starts. And the most strenuous part is friggin anchoring at the top.