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Red Wall
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Opinionated 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Hans Schuler
Page Views: 2,510
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Red Wall

Tobias Steiger leads
Opinionated (5.9+) ...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A balancy, slabby start soon turns to steep crimping as you yard up this amazing sport climb. Long(for Crowders) and sustained. Hope you had your Red Bull!


Location 

Look for a bolt line to the left of a large depression in the upper part of the middle of the wall.


Protection 

6 bolts, anchors w/ rings



Photos of Opinionated Slideshow Add Photo
Red Wall <br /> <br />Ryan Stokes leads <br />Opinionated (5.9+) sport <br /> <br />Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Red Wall

Ryan Stokes leads
Opinionated (5.9+) spo...
Red Wall <br /> <br />Opinionated(5.9+) sport <br /> <br />Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Red Wall

Opinionated(5.9+) sport

Crowders Mounta...
topo
BETA PHOTO: topo
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Show which comments
By cdg
May 5, 2008

FA by Hans Schuler, 2000.

By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Sep 16, 2008

It is my "opinion" the anchors should be moved a few more feet up to the ledge.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 9, 2009

This route is funky climbing and clipping. The first two bolt placements can be hard to clip, as they are far away from the left side natural line, but the location makes sense since it is on the cleanest part of the rock. The move after the second bolt can be protected with a #2 C3. Whats up with the extra bolt just next to the anchors? The stance for the anchor clip sucks.

By chris mcguigan
From: belmont, nc
Oct 20, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

At the start of the climb the open book to the right of the bolts is funky and feels to me like it deserves a 10, the line to the left of the bolts at the start I could see a 9 for the route.

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Charlotte, NC
Feb 12, 2013

The runout between bolts 2 and 3 can be mitigated with a yellow C3 placement in the flaring horizontal at a good stance. A fall while making the move to clip the third bolt would place you in groundfall territory. This has been the site of more than one bone-breaking fall. I agree with Chris, climbing in the dihedral to the right of the first two bolts bumps this up into 5.10 territory. To keep it 5.9 climb the large flake to the left of the first two bolts.

By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Mar 10, 2013

I got a .4 C4 to fit in the horizontal between bolts 2 & 3