North East Ridge
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John Fujii on Pitch 1.
A classic moderate alpine rock route of the highest caliber. Excellent rock on one of North America's great peaks.
The route begins at the Crescent/Bugaboo Col, to reach this cross the Crescent Glacier, then climb Class 4 rock (pretty scary in the dark) to the Col. Make an alpine start.
The route starts on the left of a small pinnacle, and for the first three pitches keeps left of the crest of the ridge proper (5.7 maximum). The rest of the route follows the crest, up fun cracks, and then chimneys (5.7 maximum) to a final puzzling bit up over a block to the North Summit, so around to the right (SW), and then up to the top.
Descent (avoiding the South Summit):
Take exposed ledges on the NE side and head for a vee notch left of the South Summit. There's a rappel anchor here which will take you, with some scambling down to the Kain Route - descend the Kain Route, rappeling when necessary until easier ground and scambling leads to the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col. Descend this with caution.
Standard alpine rack. An ice-axe and perhaps crampons are also required. Double ropes might be handy for the descent.
Fred Batliner at the start of Pitch 3.
Tony Tennessee rappels towards the Gendarme on the...
Lisa Foster and Paul Kejla third-classing the appr...
High on the ridge with Brenta Spire and Cobalt Lak...
Heading to the belay station at the top of Pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Taking the 5.9 hand crack variation off the belay ...
Morning light on the ridge
Lovely granite on the NE ridge of Bugaboo.
Midway through the summit traverse to the descent ...
Rapping off the top of Bugaboo spire after climbin...
View on the way down
Here's a good view looking up at the NE ridge
Les M absorbing the awesomeness of Bugaboo's NE Ri...
BETA PHOTO: first and second pitches of the NE Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Map for Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire
BETA PHOTO: Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire
Photo by MP contrib...
|Comments on North East Ridge
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2007
People will tell you to do the Kain route before the NE ridge, so you are familiar with the descent. The party we met who ignored this advice and wound up spending 2 nights on the spire can confirm that this is good advice.
From: Santa Fe NM
May 5, 2008
this was the first REAL BIG route that I did, though I didn't lead any of the pitches. We got pinned down on the rappels by lightning, which actually buzzed us three times. Was pretty darn scary, but the climb location was astounding.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 12, 2009
Meh, we had no problem "on-sighting" the descent. Was my first BIG alpine route over 1,000' too. Just stay skier's right as much as possible when coming down the Kain, and constantly be checking your partner's ideas for where to go ("hm, maybe we should go this way instead").
Otherwise, awesome route. This little New England climber in the big Bugaboos had his mind blown. The setting and exposure were incredible.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Feb 25, 2010
November 2010 update: Due to extreme melting, The Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col rappel anchors were removed late summer of 2009. Last summer (2010) new rappel bolts were put in and using the col was much improved.
The photo shows my crude map of alternative routes used to get around the bugs. I'll post a better map for this route this winter.
| || |Bugaboo Northeast Ridge Approach Map
contour interval 100 feet
Red Dots - Old routes, like Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col
Blue dots - East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire.
Blue dashes - Approach and descent via the Snowpatch Rappels, used in 2009 after the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col fell apart.
Blue "R" - Snowpatch Rappel Route. ACMG reported crossing 25 degree "bare ice" to get to the first rap anchor. The guide also stated that his party was able to reach the anchors without crampons in softer late day conditions.
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Mar 4, 2010
Feb 25, 2010
I disagree completely re: adding anchor stations and cleaning the NE Ridge. I climbed the NE Ridge after the rockfall in the col this summer. Descending the Kain route was no major problem, and we went down the Snowpatch rappels. It added to the "adventure" of the whole day, if anything.
Don't turn the NE Ridge into another cragging route. It doesn't need fixed anchors, and it should never really be necessary to use it as a descent, as far as I'm concerned.
Edited: Since Ken edited his post, mine makes a bit less sense now. The way around Snowpatch (Snowpatch rappels) does suck for people camped at Applebee. It's demoralizing to climb back up to your campsite after a long day. We did it, and if you were really blasted after doing the NE Ridge, it would really take a toll. It's not ideal, but we wanted to avoid that col. A couple of groups did come down the col (one of them in the middle of the night, no less), but it looked pretty sketchball to us.
Aug 9, 2010
A SLIGHTLY FASTER DESCENT
After Summit scrambling across the col from the North Summit to the South, you have the option of either
a) doing an epic reach and 5.10 move up (and to climber's left) for about 6m to gain the summit.
b) Rapping down about 15-20m, then traversing to climber's left, and up (a short pitch of 5.6 or so), to find another rap station just off the South Summit. You then have to rap off the South Summit.
You can save yourself one pitch and one rap if you do (b), and from the bottom of the rap, lead out and traverse slightly down to climber's left in an easy, 20m 5.5 pitch. This takes you to the chains from which it is one rap to the Gendarme.
Aug 9, 2010
The Kan Route, IMHO, is a piece of junk, unless you cannot lead 5.7. It is long, wandery, with tons and tons of crappy snow and scree walking, and only a few pitches of decent exposure.
If you have the Elaho guide (Piche/Atkinson) the descent should be no problem, esp. when following the fifteen other parties sure to be on the route with you ;-)
I would honestly say, do not waste your time doing the Kain as rekky. Save your energy for something way more awesome...like the Snowpatch Route!