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Routes in Bugaboo Spire

Cooper-Gran (East Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
Divine Intervention T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kain Route (South Ridge) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North East Ridge T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Colin Moorhead, Chris Brazeau 2006
Page Views: 4,929 total, 72/month
Shared By: hanshan on May 5, 2012
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Badass and as classic as anything in the park!!! This is an amazing climb blasting up an incredible face which is often ogled and rarely climbed. That will change once word of the quality of this route gets out.

This route was put up onsight- you'll have full respect for that when climbing the pin protected face climbing on the crux pitch.

No pitch by pitch description here but the line on the photo is accurate, there is a lot of sustained 5.10 fingers, and a couple harder cruxes. The crux of the climb is found around pitch 5 and involves long reaches through a face section where the dihedral peters out for a short section. It's heady and hard. Probably only 11b for climbers who climb a lot harder than that or maybe it just feels hard way up on that face.

If you run the pitches really long (50+ meters) you end up at nice stances for each belay. The best way to finish is to join the Northeast Ridge and go up and over.

Location

Middle of three major left facing corner systems running up the east face of Bugaboo Spire.

Protection

At least doubles from micro to 3", probably a #4.
Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
Kicked off a giant flake while avoiding the chossy looking dihedral on P1. It pinned our lead line to a ledge and gave me quite a scare. Ended up traversing back into the dihedral and I'd definitely recommend climbing the chossy dihedral as it is probably safer than the alternatives.

There are two spaced out pins on P5 at the crux section. If you don't want to punch it between them an assortment of RPs and/or Ballnuts could be used to back them up and get some gear in between them.

On P4 you climb back right following a thin crack in a large flake/shallow LF corner after the 1st roof. This meets backup with the main dihedral via a hand traverse at the top of the flake. Aug 10, 2017
earl mcalister
Las Vegas, NV
earl mcalister   Las Vegas, NV
Great route. There are fixed anchors for rappelling until the end of pitch 6. 2 ropes required. For rack, we brought doubles to 3 camalot with triples in blue through yellow alien with lots of slings. Offset nuts were handy.

Pitch 1: A few options exist. We climbed a large, right-facing dihedral filled with loose rock to a large ledge just right of the main dihedral. (5.8R, 70 meters)

Pitch 2: Navigate loose rock and move belay left under the left-facing dihedral. Belay at dike. (5.6 30 meters)

Pitch 3: Navigate loose blocks initially and climb the sustained dihedral with a few roof pulls and a couple fixed pins. Climb past the fixed anchor after the final roof and climb hand crack on right face to a decent ledge. (.11a, 55 meters)

Pitch 4: Continue up hand Crack until it is possible to traverse left on an obvious undercling flake to a shallow, left-facing dihedral. Continue up sustained dihedral to sporty moves at its end and a large ledge with fixed anchor. (.10d, 45 meters)

Pitch 5: Move left and climb shallow, left-facing dihedral. Move right at top of dihedral and climb crux moves with a fixed pin to another left-facing dihedral. Continue up this to a ledge on the left with fixed slings on a horn. (.11b, 55 meters)

Alternate: We mistakenly climbed left at the top of the initial dihedral and climbed a steep hand crack which eventually petered out to a fixed nut. To move right to the correct dihedral we did a tension traverse that the second followed with a lowerout. While time-consuming, this is a good option if the crux is too challenging but you still want to continue.

Pitch 6: Climb right-facing dihedral using the corner crack and flaring cracks on the right face. Climb past first ledge encountered (with the last fixed anchor) and climb easy ground up and right to a large ledge below several dihedrals. (.10b, 50 meters)

Pitch 7: A few options here, all of them a bit dirty. We climbed the furthest left dihedral that started as wide hands and continued up broKen terrain to a ledge at the dihedrals end. (5.9, 55 meters)

Pitch 8: Resist the splitter hand crack above (we checked it out and it dead ends before joining the ridge) and head left up a dihedral and broken terrain to a short, splitter finger crack. Climb this and continue up steep jugs to the convergace with the NE ridge. (5.10c, 50 meters)

From here, simul or solo the camparitively easy terrain of the ridge for a few hundred meters to Bugaboo Spire's summit. Descend via Kain ridge and BS Col. Allow a few hours for this descent as it can be tricky in the dark if you've never done it before. Aug 6, 2017
The line on the beta photo here (as well as the photo on the board at Applebee) leads to some unpleasant nut tool gardening for P4.

This more accurate beta photo won't lead you astray. Instead of following a plumb-line after the first set of roofs, the route moves left over a second series of roofs after the clean and mellow dihedral on P3, then traverses back right to finish the pitch as though you had gone straight. Jul 15, 2015
It seems that most people rap the route from the top of pitch 5. Aug 20, 2012
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Looks Rad! It's been added to the to do list. Jun 17, 2012