Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Colin Moorhead, Chris Brazeau 2006
Page Views: 6,561 total · 69/month
Shared By: hanshan on May 5, 2012
Admins: Kate Lynn, Mark Roberts

You & This Route


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Description

Badass and as classic as anything in the park!!! This is an amazing climb blasting up an incredible face which is often ogled and rarely climbed. That will change once word of the quality of this route gets out.

This route was put up onsight- you'll have full respect for that when climbing the pin protected face climbing on the crux pitch.

No pitch by pitch description here but the line on the photo is accurate, there is a lot of sustained 5.10 fingers, and a couple harder cruxes. The crux of the climb is found around pitch 5 and involves long reaches through a face section where the dihedral peters out for a short section. It's heady and hard. Probably only 11b for climbers who climb a lot harder than that or maybe it just feels hard way up on that face.

If you run the pitches really long (50+ meters) you end up at nice stances for each belay. The best way to finish is to join the Northeast Ridge and go up and over.

Location

Middle of three major left facing corner systems running up the east face of Bugaboo Spire.

Protection

At least doubles from micro to 3", probably a #4.

Photos