All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Bugaboo Spire
Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Colin Moorhead, Chris Brazeau 2006|
|Page Views:||4,929 total, 72/month|
|Shared By:||hanshan on May 5, 2012|
DescriptionBadass and as classic as anything in the park!!! This is an amazing climb blasting up an incredible face which is often ogled and rarely climbed. That will change once word of the quality of this route gets out.
This route was put up onsight- you'll have full respect for that when climbing the pin protected face climbing on the crux pitch.
No pitch by pitch description here but the line on the photo is accurate, there is a lot of sustained 5.10 fingers, and a couple harder cruxes. The crux of the climb is found around pitch 5 and involves long reaches through a face section where the dihedral peters out for a short section. It's heady and hard. Probably only 11b for climbers who climb a lot harder than that or maybe it just feels hard way up on that face.
If you run the pitches really long (50+ meters) you end up at nice stances for each belay. The best way to finish is to join the Northeast Ridge and go up and over.