Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mr. and Mrs. A.H.MacCarthy, J.Vincent, C.Kain - Aug 1916
Page Views: 41,776 total · 231/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Nov 22, 2006
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

119 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


By way of the N. lateral moraine of Bugaboo glacier and snowfield to the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col above which the S. arete is followed. Scramble up ledges easily for more then 500' to the base of a steep chimney where the rope is put on. Climb chimney (120';two leads; strenuous) to crest of ridge leading to base of formidable gendarme. Two leads on the gendarme reach groove where belay is established for the crux. Leader moves up vertical wall in cracks and over left-hand corner brings him to the base of a steep, curving crack which is ascended, leading to a short finger traverse (left) into a gully. Climb gully (10') to belay ledge behind gendarme. Thence a short climb to the summit, a second point of equal height at the N.E. being reached over a short but difficult bit of broken arete, in the middle section of which a 20' doubled rope is used to facilitate return.

The above taken verbatim from the 1955 AAC publication "A Climber's Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia" by James Monroe Thorington.

Conrad Kain considered this his hardest lead - although modern techniques and equipment has certainly knocked the edge off. His Mount Robson route remains quite an undertaking.

Descend the route via rappels and scrambling.


Standard alpine rack. Ice-axe and possibly crampons.