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> Bugaboos
> Bugaboo Spire
Kain Route (South Ridge)
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3.3 from 150
votes
Routes in Bugaboo Spire
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Cooper-Gran (East Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0 |
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Divine Intervention T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kain Route (South Ridge) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Midnight Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
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North East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mr. and Mrs. A.H.MacCarthy, J.Vincent, C.Kain - Aug 1916 |
| Page Views: | 49,071 total · 220/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Owen on Nov 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
By way of the N. lateral moraine of Bugaboo glacier and snowfield to the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col above which the S. arete is followed. Scramble up ledges easily for more then 500' to the base of a steep chimney where the rope is put on. Climb chimney (120';two leads; strenuous) to crest of ridge leading to base of formidable gendarme. Two leads on the gendarme reach groove where belay is established for the crux. Leader moves up vertical wall in cracks and over left-hand corner brings him to the base of a steep, curving crack which is ascended, leading to a short finger traverse (left) into a gully. Climb gully (10') to belay ledge behind gendarme. Thence a short climb to the summit, a second point of equal height at the N.E. being reached over a short but difficult bit of broken arete, in the middle section of which a 20' doubled rope is used to facilitate return.
The above taken verbatim from the 1955 AAC publication "A Climber's Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia" by James Monroe Thorington.
Conrad Kain considered this his hardest lead - although modern techniques and equipment has certainly knocked the edge off. His Mount Robson route remains quite an undertaking.
Descend the route via rappels and scrambling.
The above taken verbatim from the 1955 AAC publication "A Climber's Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia" by James Monroe Thorington.
Conrad Kain considered this his hardest lead - although modern techniques and equipment has certainly knocked the edge off. His Mount Robson route remains quite an undertaking.
Descend the route via rappels and scrambling.
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