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Bugaboo Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Bugaboo Spire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cooper-Gran (East Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
	Divine Intervention T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Kain Route (South Ridge) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Midnight Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
	North East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	10,394 ft
GPS:	50.74546, -116.78853 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	136,714 total · 674/month
Shared By:	Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL Details

BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.

Description

This is one of the most impressive spires in all of the Bugaboo's hence the name. From the Applebee campground the highly visible east face looms steep and nearly blank with only half a dozen or so routes. Viewed from the top of Crescent Spire one gets a great look at the classic Northeast ridge and the entire spire as it shoots into the sky like a sharks tooth.

Getting There

Most of the routes on the Bugaboo Spire are accessed via the Crescent glacier which is an easy hike from the Kain hut and Applebee campground. From the Kain hut head north toward the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and turn off before the Col as if heading to the Crescent Spire. From Applebee hike north out of camp onto the moraine and follow the same route as if going to Crescent Spire. The east face is obvious on both approaches. To get to the Northeast ridge follow the same approach as above and continue up slabs to the Bugaboo-Crescent Col. All remaining routes on the south and west faces are approached by the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bugaboo Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 138 ● Kain Route (South Ridge) Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 273 ● North East Ridge Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 6 ● Divine Intervention Trad, Alpine 9 pitches