Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bugaboo Spire

Cooper-Gran (East Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
Divine Intervention T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kain Route (South Ridge) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midnight Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
North East Ridge T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Description

This is one of the most impressive spires in all of the Bugaboo's hence the name. From the Applebee campground the highly visible east face looms steep and nearly blank with only half a dozen or so routes. Viewed from the top of Crescent Spire one gets a great look at the classic Northeast ridge and the entire spire as it shoots into the sky like a sharks tooth.

Getting There

Most of the routes on the Bugaboo Spire are accessed via the Crescent glacier which is an easy hike from the Kain hut and Applebee campground. From the Kain hut head north toward the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and turn off before the Col as if heading to the Crescent Spire. From Applebee hike north out of camp onto the moraine and follow the same route as if going to Crescent Spire. The east face is obvious on both approaches. To get to the Northeast ridge follow the same approach as above and continue up slabs to the Bugaboo-Crescent Col. All remaining routes on the south and west faces are approached by the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.

5 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Bugaboo Spire Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Bugaboo Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 81
Kain Route (South Ridge)
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 160
North East Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Divine Intervention
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kain Route (South Ridge)
 81
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
North East Ridge
 160
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Divine Intervention
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Bugaboo Spire »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

0 Comments

More About Bugaboo Spire

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (6)

All Photos Within Bugaboo Spire (115)

Most Popular · Newest · Random