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Trapps Bouldering

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Andrew Area 
Boxcar Area 
Doug's Roof 
Herman Boulder 
Kama Sutra Area 
Keyhole Cliff area 
Nameless Area 
Pebbles Boulders 
Steel Bridge Boulders 
Suzie A Boulders 
Uberfall problems 
Wawarsing Parking Lot Boulders 

Trapps Bouldering 


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Elevation: 1,000'
Lat, Long: 41.7368, -74.194 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 116,423
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 8, 2009
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Tyler on The Lorax

Description 

The Trapps, in addition to boasting more than 500 trad routes (detailed here), are home to more than 250 documented boulder problems varying in difficulty from V0 to V13 which scale and traverse the hard quartz conglomerate of the area. The only published bouldering guide for the area is Greene and Russoís Bouldering in the Shawangunks. A complete list of all posted problems sorted by quality can be found here.


Getting There 

There are several different areas each containing interesting problems along the Undercliff road. From South to North, as you walk up the carriage way from the Trapps bride towards Skytop you pass the Steel Bridge Area (Steel Bridge boulders, Terrace boulders), Keyhole, Uberfall Area (Doug's Roof, Uberfall problems, Suzie A boulders), Early Trapps areas (Pebbles, Kama Sutra, Stairway Boulders), 50 yard line, End of the Trapps areas (Andrew, Nameless, Corridor, Boxcar) and Sleepy Hollow boulders. There is one area not accessed from the carriage road, the Wawarsing Parking Lot Boulders, which are located near the Wawarsing parking lot down the East Trapps Connector Trail (AKA The Stairmaster) from the carriage road.


Guide Books 

Bouldering in the Shawangunks, Second Edition, Ivan A Greene and Marc E Russo, Jefe Publication, 2003.


A Temporary Note 

Hey everyone, Iím much more of a trad climber than a boulderer, but Iím going to be spending lots of time bouldering in the area--in between diaper changes-- and thought that it would be a good opportunity to start the ball rolling on listing problems on Mountain Project. Iíll attempt to get most of the areas and sub areas up as I have an opportunity to climb them but Iíll only post problems that Iíve completed which means that initially there is going to be a lot of easy stuff. This is an open invitation to anybody and everybody to help me construct and flesh out this area. Iím going to try to stick to the organization that is used in Boulding in the Shawangunks to make it as useful a supplement as possible. Please feel free to PM me or call me out in forums with criticism and corrections. I have no FA information other than what can be implied from the problem names. Iíd love to correctly list all of this, so please let me know if you have it. Thanks for you patience.


A Note About Grades 

While grades are certainly not the most important thing about climbing, they are an important part of having a worthwhile guidebook. It's my feeling that the printed grades in Bouldering in the Shawangunks are all over the place. It would be great if everyone who ticks a problem took the time to put in an estimate of grade and quality as well. Even if you agree with the current grade, please put in your two cents, and hopefully we can arrive at a more accurate consensus.


107 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',47],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',51],['V2-3',40],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trapps Bouldering:
Boulder of the Gods   V0- 4-     Boulder, 15'   Steel Bridge Boulders
Keyhole Crack Right   V0 4     Boulder, 12'   Keyhole Cliff area
The Prow   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   Uberfall problems
Suzie A   V1 5     Boulder, 13'   Suzie A Boulders
Clune Crank   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Keyhole Cliff area
Nameless Traverse II   V2 5+     Boulder, 25'   Nameless Area
Dislocator Roof   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   Pebbles Boulders
Tweaky Crack   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Pebbles Boulders
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation)   V2 5+     Boulder, 17'   Keyhole Cliff area
The Lorax   V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   Steel Bridge Boulders
Baby Hole   V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   Boxcar Area
Gill Pinch Roof   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Keyhole Cliff area
Andrew Boulder Problem   V4 6B     Boulder   Andrew Area
The Gill Egg (AKA Gillís Route)   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Keyhole Cliff area
Gill's Double Clutch   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Doug's Roof
Black Boulder Problem   V5 6C     Boulder   Pebbles Boulders
New Pair of Glasses   V7 7A+     Boulder, 30'   Steel Bridge Boulders
The Buddha   V7 7A+     Boulder   Andrew Area
The Illustrious Buddha   V8 7B     Boulder   Andrew Area
Box Car Arete   V8 7B     Boulder, 8'   Boxcar Area
Browse More Classics in Trapps Bouldering

Featured Route For Trapps Bouldering
Micah, past the business and headed for the face with Tyler giving a spot.

Gill Pinch Roof V4 6B  NY : The Gunks : ... : Keyhole Cliff area
Just to the right of the face with the Keyhole crack problems there is a small covered alcove with a crack running up and right in the back to where it meets a horizontal crack below a low roof. There are two overlapping problems: the Gill Pinch Roof, and Larsen's Problem.For Gill Pinch, start with your hands in the crack, and reach out to the two black stained pinches at the left lip of the roof (donít use the left wall of the alcove, it is off). Use the higher pinch to reach the good handhold ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

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