Start at a gnarly oak growing out of a ledge 10m up the cliff, under a large left facing crack system. A huge roof caps off the final pitch and makes an excellent landmark.
Pitch 1 climbs into the corner/crack system up to a small belay stance just below a hand traverse left. Pitch 2 goes out the hand traverse and up a steep layback. Yucca plants make pulling out of the crack system sticky. Belay on a broad shrub covered ledge underneath the huge roof. This is the crux pitch. Pitch 3 traverses underneath the roof, some spectacular and exposed 5.7 climbing. After turning the side of the roof, follow a short crack system to the summit.
To descend, scramble east down past a yucca and oak to a chain anchor at the top of the route, Five Easy Steps. 165' to the ground. A mid-point rap-anchor allows one to descend with a single 60m rope. Keep an eye out for these bolts to your left, on a nice ledge.
Protection
Standard rack. The belay ledge under the roof has a single bolt.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Feb 11, 2008 rating: 5.9
The K.Kiser bolted face variation for pitch 3, left of the left-angling roof traverse, is fun, and about 5.9. One of the 2 bolts had a modern one (right next to the old one), the other had just the original 1/4" bolt.
Southern Comfort Wall
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