5.9,
Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.2 from 42
votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico
> Las Cruces Area…
> Organ Mountains
> Rabbit Ears Area
> Southern Comfort Wall
Start at a dead gnarly oak on a ledge 20 ft up the cliff, under a large left facing crack system. A huge roof caps off the final pitch and makes an excellent landmark.
Pitch 1 goes right up a fourth class corner onto a large ledge (unless you scramble this part) and then climbs the corner/crack system up to a small belay stance just below a hand traverse left.
Pitch 2 (crux) goes out the hand traverse and up a steep layback for a ways. Yucca plants make pulling out of the crack system sticky. Go up one more step to the next level of the broad, walkable ramp and belay underneath the huge roof.
Pitch 3 traverses underneath the roof, some spectacular and exposed 5.7 climbing. After turning the side of the roof, follow a short crack system to the summit.
To descend, scramble east down past a yucca and oak to a chain anchor at the top of
Five Easy Steps. 165' to the ground. A mid-point rap-anchor allows one to descend with a single 60m rope. Keep an eye out for these bolts to your left, on a nice ledge.
Standard rack. The belay ledge under the roof has a single bolt.
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The Dungeon, NM
Santa Fe, NM
Overall, a much better climb than it looked from the ground. The crux corner is brilliant and the finishing traverse under the roof is actually spectacular. Bring a camera. Jan 21, 2013
Anchorage, AK
Las Cruces NM
Las Cruces, NM
Las Cruces NM
Approach: We parked right off the road at the trailhead. The gate is now closed and you cannot drive up to the Mine House. The total distance is a little over 3 km, with a 500 m elevation gain on the last kilometre. It should take at least 45-60 minutes to get to the base. Lots of loose rock, rolling pebbles, spikey stuff on the approach, but beautiful landscape. When you see the split boulder, you're only 1/3 of the way in.
Climb: Use the roof as a marker as to where you'll start. P1 is a 3rd to 4th class scramble before you get to the steeper flakes. P2 steep layback looks overhanging, but there are lots of ledges for feet invisible to the eye from the belay stance. P3 traverse left, to get around the roof is a beach whale pull--there is a good hold, but watch out, rock is loose. All in all, good alpine fun with memorable lines and views.
Descent: As described, scramble east and Five Easy Steps will be on your right, about 13 m from the top of Black Velvet. We used a double 60 m and that was enough to hit the ground with over 5 m of rope left.
Video here: youtu.be/StoX2K7YUjM?t=557 Feb 13, 2022