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Routes in Southern Comfort Wall

Best Bitters T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Velvet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
DWI T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Easy Steps T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Have a Drink On Me T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Irish Creme T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Lite Beer From Miller T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lowenbrau Light T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Margaritaville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miller High Life T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Shot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zombie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Karl Kiser and Matt Monagle, probably Spring 1982
Page Views: 466 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 6, 2008 with updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

this route appears quite straight-forward, but provides awkward stances under small overlaps which make placing gear sometimes strenuous. There are many good face holds that are not always immediately apparent, which tends to make the route feel stiff for the grade. The crux is under the right facing overlap.

There is some loose/suspect rock on this route.

Location

This route is located in an alcove on the west side of the South (Main) wall (about 100 ft west from Lowenbrau Light). The route starts up the left side of the alcove to the top of a small pillar. Directly above the pillar is the crux right facing overlap. After the crux, continue up crack systems keeping to the left to reach the summit ledge next to a Sotol bush. It is also possible to cross-over onto Miller High life which is immediately to the right.

Descent by scrambling up another 45ft to the chains of Irish Creme. 120' Two-rope rappel (can be accomplished with a single 60m and some easy down-climbing).

Protection

Standard rack. A lost-arrow piton is located below the crux. Build a gear belay at an obvious ledge with a Sotol bush, or continue up an easy scramble to the chains of Irish Creme.

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Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
  5.9
Dan Carter   Las Cruces, NM
  5.9
Not sure if I was on route the whole time but... The climbing seemed trickier than Black Velvet and there were some almost blind reaches for decent holds. Some cool movement in places but also some rotten rock. I ended up with so much rope drag I had to leave my rope and retrieve it by climbing Miller High Life. Feb 23, 2012
Karl R. Kiser
  5.8
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.8
FA, circa Spring 1982 Karl Kiser and Matt Monagle. We climbed this pitch prior to Irish Cream. And the climb shares the top with Miller High Life because both climbs were climbed without knowledge of the other.

The pin is actually on the next climb to the left (Have a Drink on Me) but the starts are very close. Mar 1, 2012

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