Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Karl Kiser and Matt Monagle, ca. 1982
Page Views: 1,289 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start in the center of the gray face. Start up the center of the face (5.9) to reach a crack system (look for a small cam placement about 10' up. Soon you'll reach a right arching crack- follow this up and right to 2 pitons (optional hanging belay here, or before starting the diagonal crack). A 5.10+ move or two with dishes and poor handholds leads to a slot large enough for a fist size cam. From here, about 15' of unprotected 5.10 face allows you to reach the next place for pro (both guides say there is a bolt here- but we didn't see one- don't count on it being there). The climb eases and you'll soon reach a right-leaning ledge; follow this for 15', then climb unprotected 5.9 face to a 2-bolt anchor.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes. Anchors at top of Irish Creme are about 120' to a ledge. It is possible to descend using a single 60m rope by easy down-climbing in a wide chimney.

Fun exciting climbing with just enough need to climb above gear to get your attention.

Location Suggest change

This climb is about 80' left of Black Velvet on a smooth gray face set back a little. It's just left of a broken left facing corner left of Lowenbrau Light. Look for a right arching crack- this feature is 1/3 of the way up the climb.

Protection Suggest change

1 to 2 sets cams (with doubles in the hand sizes), 1 set nuts.
A 2 bolt anchor is at the top.

Photos

loading