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Irish Creme
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Karl Kiser and Matt Monagle, ca. 1982 |
Page Views: | 1,289 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | George Perkins on Feb 11, 2008 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Start in the center of the gray face. Start up the center of the face (5.9) to reach a crack system (look for a small cam placement about 10' up. Soon you'll reach a right arching crack- follow this up and right to 2 pitons (optional hanging belay here, or before starting the diagonal crack). A 5.10+ move or two with dishes and poor handholds leads to a slot large enough for a fist size cam. From here, about 15' of unprotected 5.10 face allows you to reach the next place for pro (both guides say there is a bolt here- but we didn't see one- don't count on it being there). The climb eases and you'll soon reach a right-leaning ledge; follow this for 15', then climb unprotected 5.9 face to a 2-bolt anchor.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes. Anchors at top of Irish Creme are about 120' to a ledge. It is possible to descend using a single 60m rope by easy down-climbing in a wide chimney.
Fun exciting climbing with just enough need to climb above gear to get your attention.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes. Anchors at top of Irish Creme are about 120' to a ledge. It is possible to descend using a single 60m rope by easy down-climbing in a wide chimney.
Fun exciting climbing with just enough need to climb above gear to get your attention.
Location
This climb is about 80' left of Black Velvet on a smooth gray face set back a little. It's just left of a broken left facing corner left of Lowenbrau Light. Look for a right arching crack- this feature is 1/3 of the way up the climb.
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