Approaching the overhang on pitch 1 of Jubilant So...
Description
Approach:As for Black Velvet Canyon, turn north off Highway 160 onto a dirt road, 4.6 miles west of the intersection with Highway 159. Take the obvious left turn BEFORE the left turn that leads to Black Velvet. Continue down this road, turning right at a distinctive 4-way intersection. Drive as close to the canyon as you are comfortable. From the parking area, hike west into the canyon, following burro trails where possible and cross-country where not. Stay on the north (right) side of the wash, aiming for a notch up-canyon on the right side. The trail becomes more distinct up a steep hillside towards this notch, left of an deep canyon. March up this steep section to a flat area known as the Football Field. From here the southface of Windy Peak is obvious. Hike on up a couple hundred more feet to the base of the face. See photo. The approach is considered strenuous, and will take an hour or more.
Climb:(P1) Follow an easy crack (the left of two obvious cracks) up a short pitch to a ledge with a bush.
(P2) Continue up the crack into a wide chimney full of loose blocks, belay where possible.
(P3) Continue up and right and find a belay below the left side of the huge roof.
(P4) Traverse right under the roof, belaying in a small corner with huge loose blocks.
(P5) Surmount the roof (5.8) and continue up easier ground for a short distance to belay in a gully.
(P6) Continue into the gully, do some chimney moves, then move right into a water streak. Balancy moves past a bolt lead to easier ground, step left to a bush to belay.
(P7) Step back right into the water streak, and continue up difficult 5.8 moves onto easier ground. Climb a corner to a belay notch.
(P8) A 5th class move leads to 4th class slab and the summit of Windy Peak
Descent:Hike west along the summit ridge and then drop into a gully that leads back south. Depending on your instinct and luck, moderate bushwacking may be in order. Hike down the gully until given a chance to sidehill left. You should end up right at your packs.
Another incredible Joe Herbst route, in a beautiful canyon with an absoultely magnificent summit that I never wanted to leave! A Red Rock climb that won't be forgotten!
My two cents.... We had gear up to a #3 but I felt some larger gear would have come in handy in several spots on a few of the pitches. Also...there's a bit of chossy rock to deal with at times.
I think that most 5.7 leaders will be over their heads a bit on this one. Wide gear is getting lighter and you'll appreciate it on pitch 2. It's as good as everyone says, enjoy it!
As an alternate to the water streak for P6-P7, jodie b. nicely lead the corner up and slightly right of the large oak (at the top of the gully). This seemed like a nice variation to a scary, largely unprotected water streak.
At all costs link pitches 4 and 5. I've now done it both ways and the hanging belay from the detached block at the end of p4 is unnerving. The start of p5 puts the leader's butt in the belayer's face right at a crux sequence with a potential lead fall directly on to the anchor.
Linking the pitches requires some thoughtful rope management to avoid rope drag but we managed and the rope fed smooth as silk.
Windy Peak
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